[Airplane Guy]

I won't even go into the additional filters I add that take out the particles that can get into bearings (5 microns). These filters are added to the system in parallel due to the lower flow rate to capture the small particles, it take about 30 min of engine run time for all the oil to be filtered through.

[Chester Stone]

I did a little more research on oils today. My Detroit Manual specifies CH-4, 15W40, and this oil was introduced in 1998. I use Delo synthetic 5W40 which is rated by API as CJ-4/SM. This oil was introduced in 2004, replacing CI-4, CH-4, and CG-4 (and the various +s) and is designed to significantly reduce wear due to the additive ZDDP which adds needed phosphorus and zinc with less oxidation. From what I read, it is recommended for both new and older 4 stroke diesel engines. Some like apples, and some like oranges. I used very little oil for the last year, and at only $20 per gallon, I am inclined to continue using it in both engines.

[arcticdude]

I finally got around to trying to post pictures of the drain pan I came up with for my bird. As the one picture shows, it's about 8.75" thick. The last picture is trying to show how that compares to my aired down bird. This is curb side, which is significantly lower than street side. The engine drain is several inches above the side of the coach. We'll see how it works in a couple of months.

[Ozarkguy]

That's a big bucket!!!! Full it would be well over 100 lbs. Would be a good way to collect for a oil burning shop heater! But looks like it will fit under the coach..

[rheavn]

I'd like to hear how it works when you drain your series 60. Can you just let it go or do you have to control the draining rate. I've always wondered about splashing.

[arcticdude]

I figure I won't ever fill it beyond the engine capacity, so that should help the weight issue some. Funny you mention the shop heater, the tag on it states the spout will fit in a 55g drum bung.


The top is sloped for most of its surface and the 4 drain holes should be enough to allow me to just pull the plug. We'll see when I do it!

I don't really like the current setup, which is a cast iron 90 coming out of the pan, which has a plug in that elbow. While it does direct the flow straight down, it also doesn't stay tight in the pan. So there's a very slow drip that I'll fix when I drain her next time.

[hagcam]

If I did it correctly, here are the pictures of my drain pan that I mentioned earlier. It is bungeed to my work bench for storage. It works well for draining the series 60.

[encantotom]

so you guys just scoop the oil out once you have drained it from the engine?

tom

[hagcam]

Tom
It takes two people to pour the oil, via the spout, into 5 gal buckets. I then take the oil to a recycle drop off location. If I had a used oil furnace I would burn it.
I can buy oil for $45 a 20 litre pail, so I can do an oil change at home for $100 plus filters. More importantly, I do it, so I know it us done right. I write the date and mileage on the filters. I change my oil once a season, or at 15,000 miles. I actually got the 15,000 this year. Normally it is less than 5,000 / year.

[Richard]

If you install a Fumato valve, you can drain into any size container. They are easy to start and stop the flow. You can even run a hose out from under the coach to your container if desired.