[bikestuff]

What is your air door doing?

On my coach, if I turned up the air high enough to work the flapper it would cause the door to quit working. (There is a regulator in the bay next to the 12V pump) If I turned the pressure down so that the door worked, the flapper would not work.

The solution was to install dedicated regulators. (One for the door and the other for the flapper). Now it all works as it should.

[Richard]

Ok,

The toilet flapper and the air door are both supplied from the Ping tank in the rear passenger rear well. I think, but not 100 percent sure that the way that the air system is plumbed is like this: there is a regulator at the 12v air compressor, both the 12v compressor and the supply air line feed into that regulator. That is how you keep the pressure constant on the potty and door regardless of which compressor is running. 

So, the door closing slowly and the potty flapper not closing are signs that the air pressure is low at the regulator. Find the regulator at the 12v air compressor and read the gauge on it. Increase the pressure and see what happens. I don't remember off hand what mine is, but I think it's about 60 psig. 

So for Shamu here is an explanation of how the 12v, 120v, and engine compressor are all tied together.  The engine compressor obviously supplies pressure to all systems, feeding first to the desiccant cartridge in the driver tag well before going into the "wet" brake tank and then on to he rest of the tanks. The 120v compressor supplies air into the overall system too. I have seen different ways that Newell used to tie in the system to the 120 compressor. The 120v compressor is usually set to turn on around 70 psi and off at 90 psi using a garden variety we'll pump switch usually located in the generator blower housing bay. And then there is the 12v compressor that feeds the wheel well ping tank only. There is a check valve that keeps the 12v compressor from supplying the rest of the system, but allows the engine compressor or 120v compressor to pressurize the Ping tank.

Back to Shamu's initial problem. Let's check that proper air pressure is present before tearing into the system.

As usual, I'm often wrong but seldom in doubt.

[Shamu406]

i have pull drains on 3 of my tanks.  i paid about 7 or 8 bucks apiece for them at ryderfleetproducts.com

tom

Wow! Awesome!
Thanks Tom!

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i have pull drains on 3 of my tanks.  i paid about 7 or 8 bucks apiece for them at ryderfleetproducts.com

tom

Wow! Awesome!
Thanks Tom!
I paid 29.98 for the solenoid rebuild kit, and 39.98 for the Palm Valve that opens the Generator tray, was that too much?
Thanks!
John

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John, I would suggest that as soon as you can safely get under the coach or get someone else under it, you change the petcock drain valves out to the plug cord valves.  That way you can drain the moisture out of the tanks on a routine basis without worry about crawling under the coach.  I just had to replace both of the two brake tanks you found behind the front axle.  They had rusted through from the inside and were starting to leak badly.  They are hard to find so it is a good idea to keep water out to the maximum extent possible.  I ran the pull cables through an opening in the back of the first compartment behind the wheels on the passenger side so I can easily access them.

Thanks Michael,
I'm working on that!

[Shamu406]

What is your air door doing?  

On my coach, if I turned up the air high enough to work the flapper it would cause the door to quit working. (There is a regulator in the bay next to the 12V pump)  If I turned the pressure down so that the door worked, the flapper would not work.  

The solution was to install dedicated regulators.  (One for the door and the other for the flapper).  Now it all works as it should.

Bill,
Thanks for the reply.
Mine almost seems opposite of that. I'm definitely confused at this point about it. When you say regulators, do you mean the solenoids?
Thanks,
John

[Shamu406]

Ok,

The toilet flapper and the air door are both supplied from the Ping tank in the rear passenger rear well. I think, but not 100 percent sure that the way that the air system is plumbed is like this: there is a regulator at the 12v air compressor, both the 12v compressor and the supply air line feed into that regulator. That is how you keep the pressure constant on the potty and door regardless of which compressor is running. 

So, the door closing slowly and the potty flapper not closing are signs that the air pressure is low at the regulator. Find the regulator at the 12v air compressor and read the gauge on it. Increase the pressure and see what happens. I don't remember off hand what mine is, but I think it's about 60 psig. 

So for Shamu here is an explanation of how the 12v, 120v, and engine compressor are all tied together.  The engine compressor obviously supplies pressure to all systems, feeding first to the desiccant cartridge in the driver tag well before going into the "wet" brake tank and then on to he rest of the tanks. The 120v compressor supplies air into the overall system too. I have seen different ways that Newell used to tie in the system to the 120 compressor. The 120v compressor is usually set to turn on around 70 psi and off at 90 psi using a garden variety we'll pump switch usually located in the generator blower housing bay. And then there is the 12v compressor that feeds the wheel well ping tank only. There is a check valve that keeps the 12v compressor from supplying the rest of the system, but allows the engine compressor or 120v compressor to pressurize the Ping tank.

Back to Shamu's initial problem. Let's check that proper air pressure is present before tearing into the system.

As usual, I'm often wrong but seldom in doubt.

Thanks Richard,
I checked the 12v comp. gauge when the problem first came up, and it read 60 psi, but checking it yesterday, it read about half of that. Not sure why. I would think if low, the pump should come on and bring it up. I turned off the 110 pump a few days ago, because the toilet flapper will not work with it on. Not sure what to do next.

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You can buy the drain cocks at NAPA.  If your tanks don't already have them take a plug in with you.  My large round tanks already had drain cocks but all the cross member tanks had plugs.  The pipe size was 1/2" but NAPA call them 3/8" because that is the size of the drain hole.  I hope this helps.

Are those the "pull cord drain cocks" sold at NAPA?
Thanks,
John

[Richard]

John,

I am easily confused by lengthy threads. Can you summarize what the doors and potty is doing? Do they work if you power up the main engine? If so, what is the supply pressure gauge on the dash showing? Do they work on the 110v compressor? What does the gauge on the dash read when the 110 compressor shuts off? Do they work if the 12v compressor is on?

Sorry to drag you through this again, but it will help,to get the situation defined.

[qcj]

John, the drain cocks I bought from NAPA do not have pull cords.  They might sell them I don't know.  I have a pull cord on the wet tank behind the rear axle which I pull about every month or six weeks.  I am under my coach several times a year either servicing it or just looking, so manually draining the tanks is not a big problem.

[DogKnots]

Regarding water leaking from your AH, I had a similar problem but in my case the water originated from the toilet located directly above the AH bay…the water leaked from the toilet directly down onto / into the AH bay…it just went through the hole in the floor that surrounds the plumbing
Look for other sources / keep an open eye for any other area that could be the culprit. The water sometimes runs along the chassis parts and settles into a distant area.
You mentioned needing a sequencing valve, so that made me think possibly there's involvement from the loo…only if the locations / geography of your coach fits. If you take the top off the toilet, look inside to see if you've got a water leak!
Just my 2 sense…

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Regarding water leaking from your AH, I had a similar problem but in my case the water originated from the toilet located directly above the AH bay…the water leaked from the toilet directly down onto / into the AH bay…it just went through the hole in the floor that surrounds the plumbing
Look for other sources / keep an open eye for any other area that could be the culprit. The water sometimes runs along the chassis parts and settles into a distant area.
You mentioned needing a sequencing valve, so that made me think possibly there's involvement from the loo…only if the locations / geography of your coach fits. If you take the top off the toilet, look inside to see if you've got a water leak!
Just my 2 sense…

[Shamu406]

John,

I am easily confused by lengthy threads. Can you summarize what the doors and potty is doing? Do they work if you power up the main engine? If so, what is the supply pressure gauge on the dash showing? Do they work on the 110v compressor? What does the gauge on the dash read when the 110 compressor shuts off? Do they work if the 12v compressor is on?

Sorry to drag you through this again, but it will help,to get the situation defined.

Thanks Richard,
The air door between the kitchen and master Brm. does not work on ANY air system, it tries to a little but does not. The air door on the rear walk in closet does work. The toilet flapper will not work if the 110 is on, if left off, it does work. Something tells me its something near the middle air door and toilet maybe?

[Richard]

Did these two problems occur at the same time? Call me when you have time. 817 223 2056