So what's throwing me off (just came inside from tinkering with it) is that it ran fine yesterday. When my wife came home, I demonstrated it to her and as soon as I let go of the starter switch it died. started and ran fine for the 4 earlier attempts. I do see a resettable breaker on the back of the generator head but that's not tied to the engine. So frustrating. Wouldn't start before and now it won't stay running.
--Simon
1993 8v92TA #312
(This post was last modified: 06-16-2023, 08:27 AM by BusNit.)
Well, crap. Went back out there to check it again and this time it will not start. Fuel solenoid is not pulling in. Back to square one. Frustrations running high. Might be time to move on and let someone else enjoy this coach.
I will wager you'll find wires on the generator end tied together with some tape or somesuch. I'll also wager they are intermittently NOT shorting. I've even seen one with a connector jumped with a paperclip or small alligator clip test harness!
Be seeing you,
Rick Miller
#423
1996, 45'+, Non-slide, Series 60, ABS, 1.5 Bath, Reverse Floorplan
I thought I made headway when I found a broken diode. Soldered in a new one but the problem of no start persists. It will crank and start but when you let go of the start switch, it shuts down. The fuel rack solenoid doesn't stay engaged as it loses power. I am at a loss at this point. Hot weather doesn't help. Tempted to wire this with an on off switch and ditch all the relays and shut downs/sensors.
It may be a fault in the engine protection sensors. Try bypassing the oil pressure and temperature sensors. I think the oil pressure sensor is just below the fuel solenoid. Temp sensor is probably in the head. Those sensors are bypassed when the switch is in crank position.
1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
I did try that to no avail. While digging into this further once my mood cleared up, I believe the issue is the circuit for the generator hour meter. It shares the same power for the solenoid coil. The hour meter has about 600 miles less time on it over the one in the coach which I believe to be accurate. Also the wire for the rack solenoid has markings on it that say hour meter. Unfortunately, I can't reach the wiring in the generator head without pulling the whole thing out and I am not comfortable doing that without a forklift capable of that weight. Aside from that, it is all assembled back together. I already ran a heavy gauge wire through the interior down the pilar and into the bay all while encasing it in protective loom and strapped to look factory. A separate switch using the same circuit that does have constant power will be used to energize the rack solenoid. Even if I try to shut down the engine with the factory switch, it will not do so unless I turn off the power to the rack solenoid. All in all a forgetful situation that should not go wrong. The only downside is not being able to use the other switch locations unless I flip the main solenoid power switch up front. It's ok since I only use the drivers side generator switch mainly since the transfer switch is there too. it's the best I could do and will suffice for my needs. Might incorporate an auto start/stop wireless system to charge the lithium bank when they reach a low percentage in the future.
--Simon
1993 8v92TA #312
(This post was last modified: 06-16-2023, 08:39 PM by BusNit.)
To update this thread, I ended up wiring a switch to manually energize the fuel solenoid coil and powering up the circuit for the inside hour meter, temp and oil pressure gauges. Installed new silicone hoses, clamps, t-stat with cover since the old cover had some pin holes from pitting. New temperature cut-off switch and of course coolant. On the bottom radiator hose, I sleeved it with a small piece of sump discharge hose since the radiator hose had a bend that deformed the smooth circular interior (Sleeve keeps the hose from deforming too much) and also to keep the hose from chafing against the fuel injection pump housing. Old hose was worn halfway through. Overall, the system works wonderfully and reliably. This saga is closed until the day comes when I decide to pull the generator out of the box to detail it and really go through everything. I believe there is a bad connection in the generator head since I am not getting the circuit to close for the generator hour meter. It is off by 600 hours. gauges also will not work unless I provided power when the fuel solenoid relay is closed. (used same power source to alleviate a possibility of backfeed)
