[Chester Stone]

Todd, I am referring to the switch that is labeled "SHORELINE". I assume it switches incoming 220 ac power between the shore source or generator. However, I am uncertain since I do not know if you have an automatic switching device like mine does.

[encantotom]

hi chester and todd,

my 90 had a manual transfer switch. so they must have gone to the auto transfer switch in the mid 90's. forest, did your 93 have a manual or auto transfer switch?

that manual switch is 2 big relays with an add on switch to each relay. i rebuilt the one in the 90 with all new relays. (pricey things).

i assume it was set up the same way. my switch had 3 positions. shoreline, off, genny.

i think deans suggestion is a good one and fairly easy other than getting to it.

tom

tom

[prairieschooner]

Todd, hopefully this isn't another big issue. Looks to me that the only switch important to this issue would be the Shoreline.
Here is how these work on our '82
1) Shoreline (Shore/Generator) - controls a Relay Panel. This is a Source Isolation Control that keeps your coach using power from only that source, you don't want your generator back-feeding into a land based power supply. When wanting power from the generator that switch should be in that position.
2) Battery Condition - tells the voltage for the battery bank that the switch is in that position. Momentary position simply to check voltage.
3) Battery Merge - causes the merge solenoid to connect the engine and house battery banks. I would bet that when up it uses the Engine batteries to supply the power to the solenoid and when down uses the Aux (house and gen) bank to supply the power to the solenoid. I only use this when I want one of the banks to supply power to the other..say when I want the House Batteries to be charged when going down the road or when getting ready to go dry camping. I don't use this all of the time because my Engine Batteries are 2 each size 8D Starting and my House Batteries are 4 each 6 Volts Deep Cycle that are wired in series to produce 12 Volts and I feel have different charging requirements.

Hope this was helpful

[Brad Townsend]

I had a similar problem yrs ago and it was low voltage. Many post back you said the cables were cleaned and tightened but have you confirmed that you have good voltage. If the cables needed to be tightened they may be hurt not knowing how long they were loose, if they were loose. Low voltage is very fussy about having a good ground. I would check all grounds that apply. You sure are getting a lot of help. This is a great place for help. Thanks Tom.

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One more thing. As far as the gauges go I just had mine replaced this past November at Newell. Neither one worked and the gauge and the sending units have to match which I did not know. I like the new ones they stand out better.

[bestgenman]

I'll add something else to the mix. The solenoid that holds the fuel rack in the run position is a two winding device. One winding is pull in and the other is hold in, the hold in is fused. The pull in is tied to the starter so that when the starter is engaged the rack is pulled into the run position. The hold in is connected to the IGN circuit of the engine which includes the alternator excite, engine gauges, lift pump, & other accessories.

It sounds like your IGN circuit is not at +12 when the engine starts. check for 12VDC at the hold in of the solenoid (red wire). I am assuming your engine has this style of solenoid as I am not familiar with the 12.5CCO Kohler. This is a common compliant for this scenario.

Your transfer switch appears to be manually controlled by the switch on the dash. some are two position and some are three position (shore-off-gen).

If you have a squirrel cage fan in a side bay, it forces air into the generator compartment and exiting through the radiator to the outside. If you leave the generator compartment open the radiator does not cool. This fan is connected to the AC output of the generator ahead of everything. There are a number of other schemes such as sail switches etc.
I hope I understand your question!!

Gordon

[folivier]

My '93 had the same switch as yours Tom, shoreline, generator, and off positions.

[Richard]

Todd,

In my unasked for opinion, the diagnoses has skipped the simple and jumped into the complex.

Do this simple test. Open the genny door, find the fuel shut off solenoid, take your hand or a screwdriver and hold it open. Hit the start button till the engine fires. Continue to hold the solenoid until the engine is up to speed. Say 10 seconds. Does the genny stay running? If yes, then repeat the exercise EXCEPT turn the solenoid loose after the engine fires, if it stalls then you have narrowed down the problem.

The engines for the generators are fairly simple critters. They need fuel and air. If the solenoid behaves as I think it will then bestgenman has told you what to look for.

[Flick]

Simple. I like simple. I went out this evening to complete my floor removal. Started the gen by holding the start switch forever. Went back later this evening and every time I tried as soon as I let go of the start switch she would die. The first time the blower fan kicked in and when I heard that and saw the electrical gauges jump I let go and she kept churning. Second time no blower and no electrical gauge movement.

So Richard I will try your suggestion tomorrow. Thanks. Any ideas why the gen oil pressure and temp gauge would be non functional? Both do nothing so I have no reading.

[Richard]

My guess is a loose wire or bad connection explains gauges and funky solenoid behavior

[HoosierDaddy]

Yep...I'm with Richard......Check that glass fuse holder in the generator control box.................................................