[House Divided]

Sorry Jeff. Mine has only the five labeled breakers. I do not have any extra that are unlabeled.

[Richard]

Jeff,

Let me nose around in the light tomorrow and see what wires and breakers I have associated with the solenoid.

[RegaNewell]

Thank you both! The journey continues ...(I would insert a happy face here, but have not learned that trick yet.)

[RegaNewell]

I believe I made some good progress today.  The power wire for the low/high speed solenoid is an orange/black stripe wire.  It goes to the electrical panel inside the engine bay.  It was connected to a green/yellow stripe wire that I eventually traced to the front passenger electrical panel in front of the passenger seat.   It was connected to a black wire that went to that odd switch mounted in my dash. It was a basic on/off switch, the other wire was also a black wire that was connected to a baby blue #12awg wire.  I traced this wire all the way back to the same electrical panel in the engine compartment.  It was connected to a relay that was actually labeled Fan Control.  This is where I have to say how dumb I felt.  That saying that you can't see the forest through the trees is absolutely true. 

Quote: Urban Dictionary defines the expression to mean someone is so simple minded that they can't figure out the simplest problems.  Their minds are like great big empty voids of any kind of logical thought.  This is why even though they can see the trees their simple minds can't grasp that's the forest.

After spending 2 hours tracing this out (before I hooked up the tick tracer), I was determined that this green/yellow stripe wire had to go to the DDEC. I spent a lot of time cleaning all the black oily gunk, lots of tie wraps, and removing a lot of black tape from the wires going to this unit, no green/yellow wire.  This is when my brain kicked in an hooked up the tick tracer.  What's really bad is after using the tick tracer and tracing the wires all the way to the front and all the way to the back, is when I opened my eyes and actually saw that the orange/ black wire was 2 inches away from a relay that was actually labeled Fan Control.   It looks like the green/yellow stripe and baby blue wires were just spares that ran to the front electrical panel.  Someone removed the orange/ black stripe wire from the relay and connected it to the green/yellow stripe spare.Then the baby blue wire was hooked to the fan control relay.  The switch on the dash was connected to the baby blue and green/yellow stripe wires. I am going to remove the switch, unhook the spares and connect the orange/black stripe wire back to the relay.  I will then check the relay and actually make sure it functions correctly.

[RegaNewell]

In the Newell book that came with the coach, there is a Termination list (1-24) of all the wires and there function for the rear electrical panel in the engine bay.  The wire color for each terminal matches the book exactly. I can not find any information or electrical schematics for the electrical components ( Relays, Breakers, Solenoids). I have the Fan Control relay pulled out and I'm going to test it now. Does anyone have any electrical schematics for this wiring panel?

Update:

The fan control relay functions correctly on the bench. Looking at the bottom of the relay you will see the relay terminal connection.  Terminal #1 (+12 volts) and terminal #4 (-12  volts) energize the internal coil of the relay.  Terminal #1 is jumpered to terminal #5. The power for the hydraulic fan solenoid is connected to terminal #3. Terminal #3 and Terminal #5 are a set of normally open contacts that close when the relay is energized.  The orange wire that connects to Terminal #1 gets it's power (12 volts) from terminal #4 on the terminal block mounted in the panel. According to the book, terminal #4 [[is the DDEC Ignition - #12 Orange.]] this is not correct!! Terminal #4 is actually Ignition Fuel valve - #12 Orange, and Voltage regulator - #12 Brown!  I have checked this and indeed I have 12 volts on the orange wire going to the fan relay terminal #1 when the key is on.  I DO NOT have a ground (yellow wire) on terminal #4.  I will now try and locate the other end of this wire.  I could just put a ground wire on terminal #4 and I believe everything would work fine.  I just want to try to understand where this yellow wire goes. I added a picture of the bottom of the relay to show the connection points.

[Richard]

I don’t know if my pics will help or hurt, but here goes.
       

[RegaNewell]

Thank you Richard, Yes these are some great pictures. I see that on the row of breakers, you have six like I do. The sixth one even has a purple wire on it like mine. Your label puzzles me though, what is Link (or UNK) 2000? I also see that you have the yellow wire on the bottom of you Fan Control relay. Could you maybe check and see if this wire is actually common to ground?

[RegaNewell]

I am not sure about this fan control relay operation.  I know that Terminal #4 has to be grounded to make this relay work. I did my best to trace out this yellow wire that needs to be grounded.  I was able to follow it under the couch until it went up through the floor.  I could not find it any where under the dash or the front terminal panels.  Now I am wondering if this system actually breaks the ground to change the energized state of the relay.  I assumed that since the power came from the DDEC that it would know when to shut off the voltage when it needed the fan to run in high speed.  The 12 volts may actually stay hot all the time and the ground is the control.  Well I wanted to know if everything would work since I removed the front switch, unhooked the spares, and wired the relay as I think it was from the factory.  So I put a jumper on the yellow wire (terminal #3 on the relay), and started the coach.  The fan was running put I was not sure if it was running in high or low speed.  So I pulled the solenoid connector apart and the fan instantly went into high.  I put the connector back together and the fan went to low speed.  I had a smile on my face and was happy, this only lasted about 30 seconds.  The fan started changing from low to high and was fluctuating.  I moved the connector around and the speed would change, then it went into high and stayed in that state.  Then I found out why. One of the wires going into the coil had broken off right where it goes into the coil. Sometimes I just want to cry.  I am now going to remove the solenoid coil and see if I can repair it, or have to order one.  I believe I will call Newell tomorrow and try to talk with someone that can explain the correct operation of this circuit.  I included a couple pictures of the coil.

[Richard]

The coils are not terribly expensive, and you found a smoking gun. Woo Hoo.

Look at post #5 on this thread. http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=1394

And the part number of the coil in this thread. http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=2338

https://www.ebay.com/itm/113904687222

https://www.applied.com/c-brands/c-eaton.../102135641

For those new guys following this thread. A suggestion is to add the valve body and solenoid to your spare parts inventory. They do go bad, and when they do, the fan runs at high all the time.

I will check the break ground to activate relay later today.


Very nice work, wading through the system, understanding how it works, and posting for others to learn.

[Richard]

Winner winner chicken dinner.

You are right on. The yellow wire is a make to ground, and that activates the relay. The relay is of course activated at low engine temps, and deactivates when the temp rises causing the fan to default to high speed.

I confirmed in two ways. I ohmed it to the ground lug, it has a bit of resistance, not not open circuit. With ignition on, if you remove the yellow wire from the lug, the solenoid deactivates.

It has to be make/break ground on that relay since the power input and power signal terminals are wired together. There would be no purpose to the relay if the ground signal was not the make or break.

I had no way of getting the engine up to temp to cause the relay to deactivate.

I do not know if the yellow wire gets it’s signal from a thermostat, another relay, or the DDEC. If you find out let us know.