[Richard]

David, the 120V water pump is a monster. I pull 160 amps DC when it starts. If the microwave or aux air pump is running, you could easily top out over 200 amps for a brief time.

Don't know what inverter you have, but mine puts out 120 amps charging the house batteries.

Translation 300 amp shunt = good.

[dbld58]

Thank Richard - I figured 100 would be too small.

How did you figure out your amperage draws? Just curious.

[bestgenman]

This is my choice,  it displays average leg voltage and current and KW on one screen, which is where I leave it.   There are several screens, each with different information.  such as L1-N voltage, L2-N voltage, L1-L2 voltage, amperage each leg, kw, kva, pf, watt hours consumed, THD and much more.

The CTs need to be changed to 100:5 rating and making sure the voltage conductors are fused.  The existing face plate is changed to one hole plus the thermostat.
   

Just different viewpoints !!  Some like a separate meter, some want different information.  I waned KW.

[Richard]

I used a sophisticated amp meter that is corrected both for the galvanic attraction of the earth’s poles, and the direction the wind is blowing. Seriously i just looked at the inverter panel when the pump, microwave, or something else is operating. I have a magnum inverter with the shunt monitoring capability.

[smagown]

I replaced my 120v water pump with a 12v Remco 55A Aquajet-ARV. It is 5.5 gpm and 65psi, $220 on Amazon. it produces plenty of water, the Headhunter toilet works fine, and best of all, it is dependable.