Steve, that diagram was on the side of the relay, and that is what, ultimately, helped me figure it out.......along with Tom's detailed description of each pin's purpose. I hooked up the trigger wire to 87 which closes the circuit when it is in blinker mode.
Clarke and Elaine Hockwald
1982 Newell Classic, 36', 6V92 TA
2001 VW Beetle Turbo
Cannondale Tandem
Cannondale Bad Boy
Haibike SDURO MTB http://whatsnewell.blogspot.com
Clarke and Tom, please post the brand and model number for the turn relay. Clarke, you posted photos on the old relay with the wires numbered and the new with numbers. Can you post which numbers on the old connect to which numbers on the new.
2001 Newell #579
tow a Honda Odyssey
fun car: 1935 Mercedes 500K replica
I hooked up #5 - trigger wire (this is where the trigger wire was on the old, not #4 as I showed on the picture) on from the old relay to #87 on the new. I hooked up #1 (ground) from the old to #85 on the new. I hooked up #4 (battery source) on the old to #86 on the new. I hooked up #3 (sends signal to turn signal) on the old to #30 on the new. 87a was not used.
This is an SPST (single pole - single throw) relay with 5 pins labeled 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a.
Clarke and Elaine Hockwald
1982 Newell Classic, 36', 6V92 TA
2001 VW Beetle Turbo
Cannondale Tandem
Cannondale Bad Boy
Haibike SDURO MTB http://whatsnewell.blogspot.com
I am too walking down this path. This thread was really great in getting me going. I have one thing to add....
Rather than plugging the wires directly into the relay and then trying to use an existing hole to secure the relay...I found this at NAPA...EC38 assembly that I can mount, permanently wire in, and then insert the relay into the top. I think it makes for a much cleaner installation. I used quick-disconnect males on the ends of the wires so I did not even have to cut a single wire.
Thanx to Guru's!! A while back I stopped on side of road with 4 way flashers on. I noticed my left rear signal was not working. A few days later I decided to get a new bulb for it. Surprise! No bulb it is a completely sealed unit. Called Newell & they have some "almost" same but glass instead of plastic in stock. Was mulling over whether to go ahead & replace all rear lights to keep things matched. About $30 each ball park for pigtails & shipping. Waited until last minute before getting ready to head to Phx. Called Newell & Morgan wasn't sure if he could get it out overnite as it was after 3 pm there. Decided I could just drill a hole in housing and stick a license plate bulb in it to get at least some kind of turn signal until I was sure where we would be for shipping. Pulled old light out to drill hole & then it hit me. It has 3 pins! 2 separate lights in it, 1 bright 1 dim. All I had to do was figure which one works & run a quick jumper to get signal. No drilling holes! When bench testing light I discovered that both still worked. Put flashers on & now had no rear turn signals at all. Read thread here and tapped on relays (which were both clicking). Still no signals. Wiggled plug on right turn light, voila! it works! Cleaned pins & plugged left & now have both working turn signals in rear. I note here that my front & sides were always working. In my quest to try & find original lights, I did find they are still available from Truck Lite through NAPA. Sometimes the easy fix is the right one.
I have found a source for the OEM (or at least VERY close) turn signal relays. The pins are numbered the same as on original. I had to make a "Y" to handle single spade instead of the double spade on the original. My friend that works for Auotzone found it. He is like most of us, a bit older! When I took the original to NAPA, the guy said "what is this?" At least my friend is old enough to have actually seen one before. The new one bolts up just fine, although the holes are just a "smidge" closer together. This is an Autozone Duralast part number 19812. Posting this for the other "purists" out there that like to keep coaches as much as possible in "original" restored condition.
