[Jack Houpe]

I've never had the opportunity to work on a newer coach and find this very interesting thread, most certainly Richard's ability to break into things.

Are these latches only electrically activated? The release cable in picture where does it go?

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Jeff,
Regarding the bolts holding the whole bracket, the wrench would have to move from inside toward outside of the coach ( 90 degrees to the axis of the coach). There is no space for this since the only access is parallel to the axis of the coach. Also, to do this you'd need an electeric wrench, which has a 20" neck.

Regarding the use of a screwdriver on the latch, the latch does not releasebwith pressure on the locking arm. I opened the bay next to it, closed the latch and tried that to see if that's an alternate method. No bueno.

The rain slowed down, so I'm gonna get ready to go.........

Well they were thoughts. I am sure you have gone through all the scenarios, like Richard said, hard to visualize without seeing it for yourself. 

I was thinking the latch was like a car latch and would not respond to the prying, but it was a thought. Its good that you have another example to experiment on. 

Well hopefully you can remove those catches and free it and then you can figure out a better system to release it in the future.

[xGE_97]

Jeff, thanks for the suggestions. I'm just a little frustrated with the implementation. So I got the lower bolt removed. It doesn't actually hold the striker, it just sits below the striker, but needs to be removed because it is in the way of the top bolt, that actually holds the striker.

The nylock bolts hold onto the bolt, even though the nut has been loosened from the normal thread-jam when a bolt is tightened. The bolt and striker are hardened steel, which has been resistant to hold in place with a screwdriver wedging it. I hope that the use of a wedge to put outward pressure on the bay door will help hold it, along with the screwdriver. I'm not trusting it. Time for another special tool. I'm gonna have a 3/16" hex key welded at 90° to a strip of metal that is about 1/2" wide. Then I'll trim it down so it only protrudes about 3/16". I'll slip this tool into the bolt's keyway to hold it during nut removal. I need to do this because the latch covers the head of the bolt. Fun, eh?

---

Jack,

The latches are electrically operated. The release cable hangs down and is lengthened to extend beyond the door bottom so as to provide a not too obvious emergency release cable.

The problem is that when my latch electrically failed, the mechanical safety release did too.

[[email protected]]

Jeff, thanks for the suggestions. I'm just a little frustrated with the implementation. So I got the lower bolt removed. It doesn't actually hold the striker, it just sits below the striker, but needs to be removed because it is in the way of the top bolt, that actually holds the striker.

The nylock bolts hold onto the bolt, even though the nut has been loosened from the normal thread-jam when a bolt is tightened. The bolt and striker are hardened steel, which has been resistant to hold in place with a screwdriver wedging it. I hope that the use of a wedge to put outward pressure on the bay door will help hold it, along with the screwdriver. I'm not trusting it. Time for another special tool. I'm gonna have a 3/16" hex key welded at 90° to a strip of metal that is about 1/2" wide. Then I'll trim it down so it only protrudes about 3/16". I'll slip this tool into the bolt's keyway to hold it during nut removal. I need to do this because the latch covers the head of the bolt. Fun, eh?

---

Jack,

The latches are electrically operated. The release cable hangs down and is lengthened to extend beyond the door bottom so as to provide a not too obvious emergency release  cable.

The problem is that when my latch electrically failed, the mechanical safety release did too.

I can imagine this is a frustrating job, I know how it is. Just working down here this time of year makes things difficult, 95-97 degrees with 100% humidity will bother just about anyone. Hope it’s at least a little cooler where you are. 

Maybe once you get your Allen tool made and in the head then wedge a screwdriver behind it to keep it in place, that is if there’s room. I imagine the head of that bolt is not far from the latch. Hard to visualize what kind of space you are working in… but I know I have been in some tight spots and it can get frustrating when you can just barely reach something. Take breaks and I am sure you will get there slowly but surely. Is it just one of the latches, or are both of them stuck? Hope it’s only one of them!

[[email protected]]

Jeff, thanks for the suggestions. I'm just a little frustrated with the implementation. So I got the lower bolt removed. It doesn't actually hold the striker, it just sits below the striker, but needs to be removed because it is in the way of the top bolt, that actually holds the striker.

The nylock bolts hold onto the bolt, even though the nut has been loosened from the normal thread-jam when a bolt is tightened. The bolt and striker are hardened steel, which has been resistant to hold in place with a screwdriver wedging it. I hope that the use of a wedge to put outward pressure on the bay door will help hold it, along with the screwdriver. I'm not trusting it. Time for another special tool. I'm gonna have a 3/16" hex key welded at 90° to a strip of metal that is about 1/2" wide. Then I'll trim it down so it only protrudes about 3/16". I'll slip this tool into the bolt's keyway to hold it during nut removal. I need to do this because the latch covers the head of the bolt. Fun, eh?

---

Jack,

The latches are electrically operated. The release cable hangs down and is lengthened to extend beyond the door bottom so as to provide a not too obvious emergency release  cable.

The problem is that when my latch electrically failed, the mechanical safety release did too.

I can imagine this is a frustrating job, I know how it is. Just working down here this time of year makes things difficult, 95-97 degrees with 100% humidity will bother just about anyone. Hope it’s at least a little cooler where you are. 

Maybe once you get your Allen tool made and in the head then wedge a screwdriver behind it to keep it in place, that is if there’s room. I imagine the head of that bolt is not far from the latch. Hard to visualize what kind of space you are working in… but I know I have been in some tight spots and it can get frustrating when you can just barely reach something. Take breaks and I am sure you will get there slowly but surely. Is it just one of the latches, or are both of them stuck? Hope it’s only one of them!

[Richard]

I have been thinking what would I do in this situation, and that is dangerous.

So…………if the goal is to get to Miami and let Newell deal with it, here is an idea. The challenge is getting fuel in the tank. I would access the return fuel line from either the generator or Aquahot. Cobble a fitting on the end to attach to a fuel transfer pump, then it’s a matter of how many 5 gallon cans you want to deal with at a time. I know it would be a gigantic hassle, but it’s good to have a Plan B.

You cannot use the larger fuel supply line for the engine because it has a check valve located near the tank. Fuel will not flow backwards in that line.

[xGE_97]

Richard,
Thanks. That was the plan B. I didn't know about the check valve. My Volvo didn't have one, or maybe it didn't work. Anyway, yeah. the baby is hungry its gotta be fed.

Thanks!!

[Richard]

Yours may not have one, the Detroit fuel pump is not a great self primer, so the check valve is there to prevent the fuel from siphoning back into the tank and losing prime.

[xGE_97]

Success at 2:30;central time!!! More later. The door just swatted me in the face for opening it against its will.......Who knew????

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Success at 2:30;central time!!! More later. The door just swatted me in the face for opening it against its will.......Who knew????

Nice, true words of adding insult to injury, or injury to insult. Glad you got it, now for the solution. I would want to crack open that southco latch to see what went wrong inside, but that's me.