[les korcala]

Thank you all for great tips , we passed NM fortunately and heading to Tucson in the morning, we are staying in very cool campground in Catalina Mountains in Oro Valley just near Tucson.

More likely we will have the alternator replace , its not expansive and labor is not bad and I don't have to worry about shoring something back there!

We found Williams Detroit Diesel in Tucson and hopfully they can do it fast before heading to CA

Les

[les korcala]

So far no.luck on alternator they can not locate one in entire Tucson
Truck dont use as big Amps this one we need is in 250-300 amps range
Sitting here at WWilliamms truck service for about 3 hrs now?
Not sure whts next ,hooe they can get one ship ?

[Chester Stone]

Perhaps Williams Co. can find out if there is someone in Tucson or Phoenix that can rebuild it.

[arcticdude]

It is a 50DN, isn't it? Here's one option for shipping: http://www.penntexusa.com/. They have an aircooled version, which gets rid of the leaking oil cooled model. The other place to try is www.elreg.com. They typically have several options to choose from.

[DogKnots]

Do you all have any problems running without the engine driven alternator?
Is / was the inverter-converter-charger able to keep up with demand as long as you run the ac generator and merge both battery banks? I think it should work ok because the inverter says it provides 100 or 125 amps of charging and my alternator is only 200A.
I just disconnected my belt (it's the double v belt that drives the alternator and dash air compressor only).
My dash air compressor bearing crapped out and I'm fixing to head out for a road trip...sure hope we make it ok!
Hope to see some Newells at Daytona Speedway!

[RussWhite]

Jonathan,

Should work just fine.  I have done it without any problem.   Russ - EE

PS - The merge relays don't have a good reputation and I am on my third one.   Good idea to carry a spare as its failure would end things quickly for you.

[Richard]

I have run with the gennie and merge switch to power the engine battery before. If the merge switch were to fail, you can easily hot wire the two systems with a battery booster cable. Not recommended, but in a pinch.

I also seized an AC compressor once with the double v belt arrangement. I kept a special set of short belts in the spare parts bin to bypass the AC compressor should it happen again. Sorry I can't tell you the length of the belt, the coach and belts belong to another member now.

[bestgenman]

A new set of issues!   I noticed my engine battery voltage low and checked the belts, they were loose.  On 567, there are two "A" belts driving the AC compressor and the alternator from the accessory drive on the series 60.  The alternator is a Penntex 3S-285 and the regulator in the electrical compartment.  The alternator output is routed directly to the battery isolator center post.  I checked the voltage on the engine batteries without engine (bottom isolator stud in this case)  and the "ECHO" charger was doing it's job keeping them at 12.82V.  With the engine running, the voltage went down to 12.18V telling me "NO OUTPUT".  Next I full fielded the alternator (F or blue wire with the plug disconnected from the regulator) jumped to +12V..........ZIP nothing.  Next was removal of the alternator and I found the orange wire (stator tap) broken from the terminal.  I thought for a moment this is it, easy fix, but then my inner peace wasn't satisfied.  I was sure one of the brushes had expired so off came the brush cover and they were fine.  The rotor slip rings looked pretty bad so I used scotchbrite on a dowel and cleaned them bright and shinny, put the brushes back in but no rotor resistance (should be around 10 ohms).  By now I realized this wasn't an easy fix so i split the case and removed the rotor and found the bobbin the rotor wire is wound on loose and had been moving enough to break the wires from the slip rings.  Solder came to mind but then how to keep the bobbin from moving and the thought of trying to work on this at someplace I've traveled to for relaxation overcame my "i can fix this and save some money" reluctance to buy a new one, they're about $140.   Next came the front case removal from the rotor shaft, it was not wanting to come out and finally had to resort to light hydraulic pressure.  This pushed the bearing out of the cover destroying the bearing retainer and stripping two of the four hold down bolts from the aluminum case.  Re-tapped the two holes deeper and with longer caps screws, things will be fine.  All the parts will be here tomorrow,  assembly and re-install following.  

Seems like it's always something but I do love overcoming these little problems.  Rotor picture attached, kind of hard to see the broken wires.

[pairodice]

I just brought my Penntex 3S-285 alternator to a shop nearby (an 89-year old gentleman runs the place!). I needed to replace and he found one for $1000 so I ordered it, should be here tomorrow. He said the regulator was built in to this alternator but I am pretty sure it is separate. During my testing (a couple months ago) it was determined that the regulator was OK. I'm thinking of buying a spare - anyone know of a source or is this a common part (not at home so don't know the model number)...

[Richard]

Newell used Lestek regulators with those alternators. Penntex recommends a current version of their own regulator. You would have to call them for the number, to the new owner of 390 can look for you.

Be advised that Newell chose to wire the alternator different on 390 than the manufacturer specified. It worked but I don't know how. So if you decided to install a new regulator for the penntex then carefully trace the wires in the harness. Very carefully!