06-03-2024, 07:17 PM
Ok. Quite an experience. 3 special tools and about 12 hours labor ( not counting making/purchasing tools). I guess its bad gas pump ettiquite to do this at the pump. After freeing the door, I'll have to tape it shut for travel. Probably that green painting tape. We are in the Lincoln/Omaha area at Pine Grove RV Park while checking out the area for a Teton Club International rally for fall 2026. After this we will probably stop in Kansas City for the same purpose. Then its on to Newell for replacement latches. When I get a few weeks in one place I'll design a replacement striker bracket. This will be removable with a 1/4" drive set without the contortions. Yes, its work but 2 failures will have to happen to cause the work.
For now, a wrap up:
Picture #1 shows the latch removed from the door. When mounted on the door, the left side of it is facing the bottom, the label side faces the door edge, and the side with the jaw faces toward the bay and captures the strike. The latch refuses to release the striker. The release arm is internally detached from the release mechanism. At some point I will open one of these latches. Maybe its rebuildable hahahaha.
Picture #2 shows some special tools. The striker is about 18" above the bottom of the coach, therefore any wrenches to reach it need to be longer. In this case, a ratchet and a combination wrench. I cut the wrench in half and epoxied the halves into a piece of conduit. I also used the conduit to extend the handle length of a 1/4" 120 tooth ratchet. The long screwdrivers were part of the thought that I could jam the striker bolts with enough force to hold the bolt steady and allow the nylock nut to be wrenched off. NO. The long vice grip was a just in case I need another option. Besides its too cool to pass by. At the bottom is a piece of 3/4" flat stock. I bored a hole in the end, pounded a 3/16" hex key into it and had it tack welded. I trimmed the hex key length to 3/16" in length because it needed to insert into the stryker bolt but the striker was in the latch jaw, so it had to be short. This required a couple of trims by the dremel. The weld snapped when I used it to take off the stryker on the other side. This side had released, I was just to lazy to get another key. I'll have to fix the weld.
Picture #3 shows a close up of the broken striker bolt key tool. The key is still stuck in the bolt.
Picture #4 shows the special hex key tool inserted into the striker bolt and a jam screwdriver to the left of it. Had the tool slipped out, I would have had to position it over the bolt keyway and then rotate the nut to re-engage. Therfore the first disengagement motivates you to use force!
Picture #5 shows the latch moments after the striker was detached from the bay wall bracket. The latch us still savoring the striker. You can see the tapered bolt head just above my thumb. The special key tool needed to insert into the striker bolt, yet be able to do this from the space between the body of the latch and that bolt. ( the space is just above my thumb).
Lots of challenges, and man....those gas struts are no joke.
Creslie suggested taping the door shut. I don't like tape on old paint edges. I'll try rope and see. I'll add more when I see how effective rope is and anything more on the latch or striker bracket.
For now, a wrap up:
Picture #1 shows the latch removed from the door. When mounted on the door, the left side of it is facing the bottom, the label side faces the door edge, and the side with the jaw faces toward the bay and captures the strike. The latch refuses to release the striker. The release arm is internally detached from the release mechanism. At some point I will open one of these latches. Maybe its rebuildable hahahaha.
Picture #2 shows some special tools. The striker is about 18" above the bottom of the coach, therefore any wrenches to reach it need to be longer. In this case, a ratchet and a combination wrench. I cut the wrench in half and epoxied the halves into a piece of conduit. I also used the conduit to extend the handle length of a 1/4" 120 tooth ratchet. The long screwdrivers were part of the thought that I could jam the striker bolts with enough force to hold the bolt steady and allow the nylock nut to be wrenched off. NO. The long vice grip was a just in case I need another option. Besides its too cool to pass by. At the bottom is a piece of 3/4" flat stock. I bored a hole in the end, pounded a 3/16" hex key into it and had it tack welded. I trimmed the hex key length to 3/16" in length because it needed to insert into the stryker bolt but the striker was in the latch jaw, so it had to be short. This required a couple of trims by the dremel. The weld snapped when I used it to take off the stryker on the other side. This side had released, I was just to lazy to get another key. I'll have to fix the weld.
Picture #3 shows a close up of the broken striker bolt key tool. The key is still stuck in the bolt.
Picture #4 shows the special hex key tool inserted into the striker bolt and a jam screwdriver to the left of it. Had the tool slipped out, I would have had to position it over the bolt keyway and then rotate the nut to re-engage. Therfore the first disengagement motivates you to use force!
Picture #5 shows the latch moments after the striker was detached from the bay wall bracket. The latch us still savoring the striker. You can see the tapered bolt head just above my thumb. The special key tool needed to insert into the striker bolt, yet be able to do this from the space between the body of the latch and that bolt. ( the space is just above my thumb).
Lots of challenges, and man....those gas struts are no joke.
Creslie suggested taping the door shut. I don't like tape on old paint edges. I'll try rope and see. I'll add more when I see how effective rope is and anything more on the latch or striker bracket.
Bob & Dottie
Newell 1261 & Jeep Grand Cherokee fulltimers
Past Teton Reliance 45' 5th wheel
Custom Volvo VNL780 tow vehicle
2014 Smart car