09-10-2022, 01:59 PM
I want to second what Jim said. If you don’t have a voltmeter, get one with both a clamp on ammeter and the ability to test capacitors.
Turn off the power, short the terminals of the cap with a screwdriver to prevent a nasty shock. Remove the wires, and test the capacitor.
If it is OK, then reassemble, turn the power back on. Clamp the ammeter around the compressor wiring (just one, not both) and read the amperage.
Somewhere on the compressor will be a label with LRA (locked rotor amperage). If you see amperage values close to that number, then the compressor is shot. You will spend more money trying to replace the compressor than a new unit costs unless you have that capability or know a friend who does.
If it just hard to start meaning the amperage is less than LRA but higher than about 13 amps, you can add a hard start capacitor like this Supco SPP4E.
Turn off the power, short the terminals of the cap with a screwdriver to prevent a nasty shock. Remove the wires, and test the capacitor.
If it is OK, then reassemble, turn the power back on. Clamp the ammeter around the compressor wiring (just one, not both) and read the amperage.
Somewhere on the compressor will be a label with LRA (locked rotor amperage). If you see amperage values close to that number, then the compressor is shot. You will spend more money trying to replace the compressor than a new unit costs unless you have that capability or know a friend who does.
If it just hard to start meaning the amperage is less than LRA but higher than about 13 amps, you can add a hard start capacitor like this Supco SPP4E.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home
)