06-10-2022, 09:20 AM
I had issues with my mid coach vent not opening up. It is located behind cabinets so easy access was not available.
In my first attempt at repair I purchased a (defective) new motor. I installed the motor and it didn't work. That is when I purchased the new lift arm. The vent didn't work so I reinstalled the old motor. The vent worked as expected for a short while.
I bit the bullet and purchased a complete new vent. I wanted to keep the wall switch operational and did not want a remote control. The Model 3350 does not have one. The new vent has an additional feature the old one didn't - a thermostat controlling to open the vent when the inside temperature gets high.
In other threads it is mentioned you can use a new model fan with a little rewiring. The rewiring was not explained but I figured out the work around.
On the fan, I cranked the thermostat all the way to the coolest setting.
The power wires are just as you would thing. Hot wire and ground from the coach goes to hot wire and ground on the fan. These are thicker wires and fused in the wardrobe cabinet in the rear bath.
The open and close switch on the fan is where the 'unknown' resided. In the coach I had my wife operate the open/close switch on the wall while I watched the signal via voltmeter on the skinny cut wires on the roof. It appeared to be a latching +12v signal from the wall switch to the vent fan lid motor. I removed the wires from the open/close switch on the fan and installed tab connectors on these wires and the mating connectors on the coach wires. I had a 50/50 chance of getting this right. I guessed correctly on the first try and the lift motor and fan work as expected. I don't recall the color to color connections. If I knew I would get it right I would have reversed the connectors on the skinny wires to prevent getting the wires reversed in the future.
In my first attempt at repair I purchased a (defective) new motor. I installed the motor and it didn't work. That is when I purchased the new lift arm. The vent didn't work so I reinstalled the old motor. The vent worked as expected for a short while.
I bit the bullet and purchased a complete new vent. I wanted to keep the wall switch operational and did not want a remote control. The Model 3350 does not have one. The new vent has an additional feature the old one didn't - a thermostat controlling to open the vent when the inside temperature gets high.
In other threads it is mentioned you can use a new model fan with a little rewiring. The rewiring was not explained but I figured out the work around.
On the fan, I cranked the thermostat all the way to the coolest setting.
The power wires are just as you would thing. Hot wire and ground from the coach goes to hot wire and ground on the fan. These are thicker wires and fused in the wardrobe cabinet in the rear bath.
The open and close switch on the fan is where the 'unknown' resided. In the coach I had my wife operate the open/close switch on the wall while I watched the signal via voltmeter on the skinny cut wires on the roof. It appeared to be a latching +12v signal from the wall switch to the vent fan lid motor. I removed the wires from the open/close switch on the fan and installed tab connectors on these wires and the mating connectors on the coach wires. I had a 50/50 chance of getting this right. I guessed correctly on the first try and the lift motor and fan work as expected. I don't recall the color to color connections. If I knew I would get it right I would have reversed the connectors on the skinny wires to prevent getting the wires reversed in the future.
Hank & Natalie Bensley
2001 Double Slide #586.
2021 Cherokee Trailhawk Toad
Port Orange, FL. Upcoming Snowbirds in Endwell, NY
