04-06-2013, 10:03 AM
just a few fyi's.
to get at the valve, it is plumbed in with a number of fittings and tubings. there are 4 ports on the blue small mac valve that is on the left side of the entire assembly. it also has 3 blade connections that a relay goes on top of and is held on with a little screw.
the 4 ports are this
IN this is for incoming air
EX this is the exhaust port and has a small muffler on it that looks like a stone fuel filter
A door opening line
B door closing line
screw for the A this is how you adjust the rate/speed/force the door opening.
screw for the B this is how you adjust the rate/speed/force of the door closing
A and B has small flat head screwdriver set screws that you adjust the rate and force of the door opening and closing. ........important note is to turn both of them 3 complete turns to the right (clockwise) before you try opening the door after re-installation........ clockwise slows the door down and counterclockwise speeds it up. you want to have it slow to start out with or the door will open too hard the first time. it could be the door wouldnt open or close after doing this. no worries. just open the door manually by releasing the air on the manual relief air valve in the bay next to the door, open the door and adjust the closing door screw a turn CCW and try again. keep doing it till the door opens as gently as you desire. then do the same thing with the door close screw adjustment. mine at first didnt work after i did them all the way almost CW. dont fret, once you spend a few minutes adjusting them it will be just fine.
to take it out....
1. turn the air off
2. take the little screw off on the end of the relay then, pull it straight off the valve. be careful as there is a rubber gasket that goes between the valve and the relay. i had to reuse that gasket as there was not a new one with the valve.
3. now take the valve out. easier said than done. if you have hands and fingers that are dinky you will be better off. ok, i struck out there.
i took the tubing out of the push to connect fittings first. then there ended up being one i couldnt reach so i disconnected the compression fitting. it was very hard to get a wrench on. the tubing was stuck in the compression farrel like is so common. as i was pulling on it, the tubing came out of the fitting but left the farrel that usually is on the end of the tubing.
take out the valve and swap over the fittings and muffler to the new one. use some seal on the threaded fittings.
then reinstall. again, easier said than done. and test and adjust . dont forget to turn the screws clockwise 3 turns before you start.
put the air back on and test and adjust.
check for leaks. mine was leaking at the fitting that the tube had pulled out. so i need to change that one.
hope that helps someone sometime.
tom
to get at the valve, it is plumbed in with a number of fittings and tubings. there are 4 ports on the blue small mac valve that is on the left side of the entire assembly. it also has 3 blade connections that a relay goes on top of and is held on with a little screw.
the 4 ports are this
IN this is for incoming air
EX this is the exhaust port and has a small muffler on it that looks like a stone fuel filter
A door opening line
B door closing line
screw for the A this is how you adjust the rate/speed/force the door opening.
screw for the B this is how you adjust the rate/speed/force of the door closing
A and B has small flat head screwdriver set screws that you adjust the rate and force of the door opening and closing. ........important note is to turn both of them 3 complete turns to the right (clockwise) before you try opening the door after re-installation........ clockwise slows the door down and counterclockwise speeds it up. you want to have it slow to start out with or the door will open too hard the first time. it could be the door wouldnt open or close after doing this. no worries. just open the door manually by releasing the air on the manual relief air valve in the bay next to the door, open the door and adjust the closing door screw a turn CCW and try again. keep doing it till the door opens as gently as you desire. then do the same thing with the door close screw adjustment. mine at first didnt work after i did them all the way almost CW. dont fret, once you spend a few minutes adjusting them it will be just fine.
to take it out....
1. turn the air off
2. take the little screw off on the end of the relay then, pull it straight off the valve. be careful as there is a rubber gasket that goes between the valve and the relay. i had to reuse that gasket as there was not a new one with the valve.
3. now take the valve out. easier said than done. if you have hands and fingers that are dinky you will be better off. ok, i struck out there.
i took the tubing out of the push to connect fittings first. then there ended up being one i couldnt reach so i disconnected the compression fitting. it was very hard to get a wrench on. the tubing was stuck in the compression farrel like is so common. as i was pulling on it, the tubing came out of the fitting but left the farrel that usually is on the end of the tubing.
take out the valve and swap over the fittings and muffler to the new one. use some seal on the threaded fittings.
then reinstall. again, easier said than done. and test and adjust . dont forget to turn the screws clockwise 3 turns before you start.
put the air back on and test and adjust.
check for leaks. mine was leaking at the fitting that the tube had pulled out. so i need to change that one.
hope that helps someone sometime.
tom
2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608 Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH