11-11-2018, 08:15 AM
During our last tour of the country, we developed a small leak in the hydraulic fan motor. I didn't want to tear into it while on the road, so 5000 miles later, we have a nasty grimey engine bay.
Tom was here to help me get the motor out, and it was quite a learning curve that may help someone else in the future.
First of all, it wasn't the hydraulic fan motor that was leaking. There is a device bolted to the hyd motor, that is supplied with hyd fluid via a small hose coming off the hyd motor, and a small return line going to the hyd reservoir. There were no identifying marks or lableing on the device that brought up anything in google that looked like the device.
The device is called an Overhung Load Adaptor. It is made by a company called ZeroMax. https://www.zero-max.com/b-overhung-load-adaptors#1 Mine was model L600130. The purpose of the adaptor is to keep any sideways load off of the hyd pump motor. It's a pretty simple device with two tapered roller bearings mated back to back to handle both axial and radial loading. The spline from the hyd motor slips into one end and the other end is the tapered hub for the fan.
My model was a Zeromax 600 series overhung load adaptor with a high pressure seal on the output shaft. Here is an invoice with the part numbers for the overhung adaptor seals.
The pump is a Vickers MFE 15. I replaced the front seal on it just for grins. Here is the invoice for that seal.
Here are a few tips that Tom and I learned along the way.
We confirmed the leak at the OHLA seal, by taking the motor out but leaving the hoses attached. Then we cranked the engine, and unplugged the speed control solenoid to make it run on high. A white paper towell really shows up red ATF.
The OHLA has to be taken apart to get out the front seal. Remove the rear seal by standard neanderthal method. There is a huge circlip that holds the bearing assembly in. It takes a serious pair of circlip pliers to compress it enough to remove. The circlip has a bevel on it. When reinstalling, place the bevel facing outward or to the rear. The bevel preloads the bearings. When the bearing assembly is out, the front seal is punched out the front. Carefully press in the new one.
The front seal on the Vickers hyd pump is easily removable without disassembling the motor. I drilled two 1/8 holes in the face of it, screwed in two small sheet metal screws, and pulled it right out.
You are going to drain almost all the ATF out of the hyd system when you take the hoses off the motor. Be prepared for the flood. It would probably help to empty the reservoir first, but the hoses are still going to spew ATF.
Tom was here to help me get the motor out, and it was quite a learning curve that may help someone else in the future.
First of all, it wasn't the hydraulic fan motor that was leaking. There is a device bolted to the hyd motor, that is supplied with hyd fluid via a small hose coming off the hyd motor, and a small return line going to the hyd reservoir. There were no identifying marks or lableing on the device that brought up anything in google that looked like the device.
The device is called an Overhung Load Adaptor. It is made by a company called ZeroMax. https://www.zero-max.com/b-overhung-load-adaptors#1 Mine was model L600130. The purpose of the adaptor is to keep any sideways load off of the hyd pump motor. It's a pretty simple device with two tapered roller bearings mated back to back to handle both axial and radial loading. The spline from the hyd motor slips into one end and the other end is the tapered hub for the fan.
My model was a Zeromax 600 series overhung load adaptor with a high pressure seal on the output shaft. Here is an invoice with the part numbers for the overhung adaptor seals.
The pump is a Vickers MFE 15. I replaced the front seal on it just for grins. Here is the invoice for that seal.
Here are a few tips that Tom and I learned along the way.
We confirmed the leak at the OHLA seal, by taking the motor out but leaving the hoses attached. Then we cranked the engine, and unplugged the speed control solenoid to make it run on high. A white paper towell really shows up red ATF.
The OHLA has to be taken apart to get out the front seal. Remove the rear seal by standard neanderthal method. There is a huge circlip that holds the bearing assembly in. It takes a serious pair of circlip pliers to compress it enough to remove. The circlip has a bevel on it. When reinstalling, place the bevel facing outward or to the rear. The bevel preloads the bearings. When the bearing assembly is out, the front seal is punched out the front. Carefully press in the new one.
The front seal on the Vickers hyd pump is easily removable without disassembling the motor. I drilled two 1/8 holes in the face of it, screwed in two small sheet metal screws, and pulled it right out.
You are going to drain almost all the ATF out of the hyd system when you take the hoses off the motor. Be prepared for the flood. It would probably help to empty the reservoir first, but the hoses are still going to spew ATF.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home
)