07-14-2016, 05:30 AM
As I pulled the Newell out of the shop for the first time this year I noticed that it was not leveling properly and the travel light was not lit on the control pad. The trouble shoot procedure is to check for 12v at the red supply wire and the yellow ignition wire at the control box. Both checked out OK so the next step is to replace the control box.
I called HWH and after 10 minutes of collecting all my information (including the coach VIN) they said we'll call you back within 2 to 3 weeks!!!!!!! I politely told the lady that I really needed to talk to a technician sooner than that. She said she would see what she could do.
At that point I texted my ol' buddy Richard to seek advice. It turns out he had a similar issue and described his roadside repair to me. What follows is a modified version of his repair. Hopefully this may help somebody else. :
I removed the travel fuse from the number 12 position in the control box, used a 3m connector to attach a jumper wire to pick up 12v from the yellow wire which is the 12v supply from the ignition. After attaching a spade connector to the jumper wire I plugged it into the socket that the 7.5 amp travel fuse had been plugged into. Since I had a 10 amp 12v breaker handy I installed that inline on the jumper wire--not required but it gave me peace of mind!!
The HWH tech called me back before we left and was very helpful. I told him we were coming right by their place on our way to Amana. He said they were backed up in the service department but if I could remove the control box myself they would bench test it and repair. We arrived late Monday PM at HWH and parked in their lot overnight. Early Tuesday morning I removed the box and they repaired it. The cost was $45.00 labor and $11.00 for parts. I am including a pic of the jumper wire. I will leave it in place in case I experience another control box failure on the road.
I called HWH and after 10 minutes of collecting all my information (including the coach VIN) they said we'll call you back within 2 to 3 weeks!!!!!!! I politely told the lady that I really needed to talk to a technician sooner than that. She said she would see what she could do.
At that point I texted my ol' buddy Richard to seek advice. It turns out he had a similar issue and described his roadside repair to me. What follows is a modified version of his repair. Hopefully this may help somebody else. :
I removed the travel fuse from the number 12 position in the control box, used a 3m connector to attach a jumper wire to pick up 12v from the yellow wire which is the 12v supply from the ignition. After attaching a spade connector to the jumper wire I plugged it into the socket that the 7.5 amp travel fuse had been plugged into. Since I had a 10 amp 12v breaker handy I installed that inline on the jumper wire--not required but it gave me peace of mind!!
The HWH tech called me back before we left and was very helpful. I told him we were coming right by their place on our way to Amana. He said they were backed up in the service department but if I could remove the control box myself they would bench test it and repair. We arrived late Monday PM at HWH and parked in their lot overnight. Early Tuesday morning I removed the box and they repaired it. The cost was $45.00 labor and $11.00 for parts. I am including a pic of the jumper wire. I will leave it in place in case I experience another control box failure on the road.
1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.