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Greetings,
What's the safe way to bypass a slides hydraulics. I have a leaking cylinder and it's going to be while before I can deal with it.
Can I just cap off the Extend and Retract lines at the front manifold?
I'm assuming I have to relieve the pressure first. From the forum I see I need to turn the screw on the solenoids 3-4 turns. Is that counter clockwise? Is that all I have to do to relieve the pressure? It might already be relieved based on the volume of fluid all over the front of the rear passenger tires.
Is the proper solenoid directly across from the given line?
All my lines are labeled but of course it's Right Rear extend/retract and Left Rear Extend/Retract. Is the Passenger side right?
Once I cap it off do I return the solenoid to it's normal position or leave it relieved (x turns the opposite direction)?
Should I cap off the lines as well?
I have hydraulic slide locks, is it ok to drive the coach after I block of the lines? I have new front 365's about to show up in theory so I need to get to the tire shop.
Thanks
Frank
Frank Boyer
Tulsa, OK
2001 Newell 45'8" #593 Red Series 60
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no idea about any of that but, if you remove a line i would definitely plug the ends as they will leak everywhere. Just my experiance with hydraulic lines. cap everything!
Carl Little
1996 Coach 435 Detroit 60
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Hi Frank !
If you are not going to activate the slide then leave it alone. It has leaked about all it is going to leak until you activate a room again. And the slide lock pins are down making it OK to drive. Do climb in the driver seat and confirm the pin is down.
There are a number of threads on the forum about removing the cylinders and rebuilding them yourself instead of paying a ransom to HWH.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
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(11-22-2024, 05:43 AM)Richard Wrote: Hi Frank !
If you are not going to activate the slide then leave it alone. It has leaked about all it is going to leak until you activate a room again. And the slide lock pins are down making it OK to drive. Do climb in the driver seat and confirm the pin is down.
There are a number of threads on the forum about removing the cylinders and rebuilding them yourself instead of paying a ransom to HWH.
Thanks Richard,
I have looked at a bunch of those threads.
I'm going on a short trip next week and moving the front slide is something I would have liked to do. Is just relieving the pressure at the solenoid all I have to do when I attempt to remove the cylinder? This slide has been a problem just about every time I use it. I have half a mind to just never touch it again.
I only noticed this when I ran out the front room slide. So I'm also wondering if the solenoid for this slide is also leaking now.
Frank Boyer
Tulsa, OK
2001 Newell 45'8" #593 Red Series 60
Chevy Suburban toad
Posts: 5,412
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Based upon the statement, the fluid is leaking out onto the front tire, it sounds like the front cylinder seal is blown.
Yes, all you have to do is relieve the pressure on the solenoid to disconnect the cylinder safely. Glenn Nawrocki did a very nice write up on taking out that cylinder.
If you activate the room, you will make another mess, and you may run the risk of either cocking the room or getting it stuck.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
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I am questioning the advice you are given based on my issue.
I had a broken cylinder in the front that leaked huge right above the steer tires of the front slide (2 slide coach). It leaked when I tried to move the aft slide, so there is pressure going to the front slide cylinders when the aft slide is actuated. I do remember getting a full schematic of the system, and it confirmed this setup was as planned.
I remember there being "t's" that pressurize multiple circuits whenever the pump is on, but dont remember which cylinders they go to. If you know the hydraulic lines that go to the slide cylinder, I would cap them off at the distribution area (both extend and retract), or in the passenger side front wheel well access point by removing the cover in the wheel well that is underneath the foam spray. But don't hit the button to pressurize or you will cock your slide........
Just a safety note..... you don't want high pressure hydraulic fluid hitting your skin. If it penetrates you have problems. Wear safety glasses, and use rags around fittings to minimize spray.....
All the fittings you should have to touch are -4 JIC. the -2 lines are for the slide pins.
Coach 500 1998
(This post was last modified: 11-22-2024, 09:48 AM by
Gnawrocki1.)
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(11-22-2024, 09:44 AM)Gnawrocki1 Wrote: I am questioning the advice you are given based on my issue.
I had a broken cylinder in the front that leaked huge right above the steer tires of the front slide (2 slide coach). It leaked when I tried to move the aft slide, so there is pressure going to the front slide cylinders when the aft slide is actuated. I do remember getting a full schematic of the system, and it confirmed this setup was as planned.
I remember there being "t's" that pressurize multiple circuits whenever the pump is on, but dont remember which cylinders they go to. If you know the hydraulic lines that go to the slide cylinder, I would cap them off at the distribution area (both extend and retract), or in the passenger side front wheel well access point by removing the cover in the wheel well that is underneath the foam spray. But don't hit the button to pressurize or you will cock your slide........
Just a safety note..... you don't want high pressure hydraulic fluid hitting your skin. If it penetrates you have problems. Wear safety glasses, and use rags around fittings to minimize spray.....
All the fittings you should have to touch are -4 JIC. the -2 lines are for the slide pins.
Thanks a bunch that that will help me out to find some caps and plugs. I'll defiantly take a bunch of precautions. Thankfully all my lines are marked very well at the manifold in the front. Pretty sure there is no pressure left on those lines to the rear slide now. Don't mess with hydraulics so just want to be very thoughtful before touching anything.
Frank Boyer
Tulsa, OK
2001 Newell 45'8" #593 Red Series 60
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Glenn is correct, both sides of the cylinders are pressurized on the extend stroke. HWH used one circuit to provide the pressure on the rod end, meaning that if you extend the bedroom slide and the front cylinder seal is blown you will get some leakage.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
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)
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ok, now I'm confused.
I relieved pressure (was none) capped and plugged the extend and retract lines. Refilled and ran another room until it started to move.
However now I still see the same leak in the same place. Right Rear room at the front of the room. The Left Rear room moves in and out so I'm pretty confident right is the passenger side.
I guess this just leaves the Slide lock for the right side?
What is this item. Is this what should be activating the slide locks in the rear.
Frank Boyer
Tulsa, OK
2001 Newell 45'8" #593 Red Series 60
Chevy Suburban toad
Posts: 24
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Joined: Jul 2017
It appears I may be lucky. I bypassed the right side slide lock/unlock lines and it does not appear to be leaking now. I went ahead and put back the right rear extend/retrack lines and it also does not appear to be leaking (Ran the left rear side room in and out)
I'll re-fill the tank and try again a few times tomorrow just to make sure.
Frank Boyer
Tulsa, OK
2001 Newell 45'8" #593 Red Series 60
Chevy Suburban toad