[Frankie4Fingers]

i am pretty sure it is less than a thousand bucks from zero max

but dont know for sure

tom

OOPS you know what I did, I merged my two ongoing threads... I am sorry.  Is there any way to fix it and put the comments in the right place?  This was about my rear end dipping when I level and I posted an update about my radiator

[Frankie4Fingers]

Ok so I posted an update on a different thread of mine, sorry.

As far as this one, I wonder if I can swap out the overhung adapter of this with one that is more standard and then use regular fan blades instead of the one that is traditionally in the Newell? They are quoting 3600 for the part and I can't seem to find it on the Zero Max website.

Thoughts?

For now, I think my only option is to hobble to a nearby town to try to have the broken off screw removed from the adapter.

[Richard]

Corey,

First thing I would try is to take a file and file two opposing flats on the exposed bolt. That will help the visegrips or pliers get a purchase on the bolt. I really think it is standard thread, righty tighty lefty loosey.

Second, if you can unbolt the OHLA and spin the assembly for access. Have someone with a portable welder come out and plug weld a nut on the bolt. The ground MUST be attached to the shaft. If the welder attaches the ground to anything other than the expose shaft the current will jump the bearings in the OHLA and ruin them. I have done this a bunch of times with bolts that are even broken below the surface. The heat usually breaks the bolt loose and it spins out by hand. Plug weld means place the nut over the bolt and weld inside the nut to bond the nut to the exposed bolt.

[Richard]

Posted ideas on the other thread. It’s not time for a new OHLA yet.

Worse case is you get a new shaft from Zeromax, tear down the OHLA, and replace the shaft.

[Frankie4Fingers]

Corey,

First thing I would try is to take a file and file two opposing flats on the exposed bolt. That will help the visegrips or pliers get a purchase on the bolt. I really think it is standard thread, righty tighty lefty loosey.

Second,  if you can unbolt the OHLA and spin the assembly for access. Have someone with a portable welder come out and plug weld a nut on the bolt. The ground MUST be attached to the shaft. If the welder attaches the ground to anything other than the expose shaft the current will jump the bearings in the OHLA and ruin them. I have done this a bunch of times with bolts that are even broken below the surface. The heat usually breaks the bolt loose and it spins out by hand. Plug weld means place the nut over the bolt and weld inside the nut to bond the nut to the exposed bolt.

The weld trick is a good one.  Now to find a place to go to that can do that

Thanks for the advice.

[Richard]

Lot’s of welding shop have truck with generators and welders on them. They come to you.

[Richard]

And when you replace the bolt, you need a 1/4 28 thread Grade 8 bolt. A good ACE should have them in the speciality bolt section. If you try to force thread a standard 1/4 20 bolt in the shaft you will booger the threads.

[johnkosir]

712 2004 had 5/16 24 right hand thread bolt, do not remember what grade it was, if you used 1/2 wrench it was 5/16, if you used 7/16 it was 1/4,you should be able to look at the head that broke off and tell the grade . That shaft looks like it is damaged and will have to be repaired or replaced if you want the re[air to last

[Frankie4Fingers]

712 2004 had 5/16 24 right hand thread bolt, do not remember what grade it was, if you used 1/2 wrench it was 5/16, if you used 7/16 it was 1/4,you should be able to look at the head that broke off and tell the grade . That shaft looks like it is damaged and will have to be repaired or replaced if you want the re[air to last

So you think the shaft is messed up too?  That would be a harder repair.  From what I have heard here, I might be able to get that from Zero Max, right?

---

712 2004 had 5/16 24 right hand thread bolt, do not remember what grade it was, if you used 1/2 wrench it was 5/16, if you used 7/16 it was 1/4,you should be able to look at the head that broke off and tell the grade . That shaft looks like it is damaged and will have to be repaired or replaced if you want the re[air to last

Oh, and yea, the head was 1/2.

[Richard]

Thanks for that info John! No two Newells strikes again.