[Ozarkguy]

Todd. That is what I was talking about!!! I replaced the entire bedroom floor & sidewalls.. & from the main door forward. It's doable ... If you want to discuss.. PM me & ill send you my #.

[Erniee]

Take an ice pick and try to pierce the floor. If good resistance- floor is just discolored- if no resistance- replacing is necessary

[Flick]

I have one spot that meets that criteria. Issue is that it appears to run under a cabinet so I will need to remove that. Do I have to remove the entire section or cut out that area and enough that I can screw back to the beams? I would imagine I would need enough places to secure it to that it does not flex.

[HoosierDaddy]

Hmmm, My basement a/c has insulated ducts carrying the conditioned air to the vents. The only air movement within the evaporator chamber is the return air. I don't see how it could rot from the bottom up. I'm thinking there is cabin humidity that collected in that area of the floor so it is rotting from the surface down. You may only have to replace a layer or two of plywood.
Check to see that the ceiling of your evaporator chamber is insulated.

[encantotom]

when i did some on my 90 i only needed to do the top layer. an it didnt really matter where you cut it out because you could just make new furring strips along the edge of where you cut it.

it had a 2" floor. started with 1/2" plywood base, then furring strips that were 1" high made of 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood and then a 1/2" plywood on top. in the spaces between the furring strips was 1" foam insulation.

tom

[Ozarkguy]

Will be interesting to see when they added the second layer. Mine had one 3/4" sheet, with large headed pop-rivets, it was riveted to the aluminum chanels. I could see the rivets when the floor was stripped. drilled out the rivets made new sections. Went back in with flat large headed metal screws and waterproof structural adhesive. Hopefully your is like Toms ....

[Flick]

Ya first issue is getting into the AC bay under it. The keys open every bay on the coAch but that one. Both locks on it the key slides right in but will not turn. Seems so unlisted that both could be jammed when all others open with the same key. But at this point I have come to expect these issues and obstacles. I will hi it with WD Nd see if that works. If not I will need a locksmith.

[Flick]

I pulled the cabinet that abuts the bathroom as this is where most of the rotten wood is. As you will see from these pics the wood is just a black dust. Very odd. The rotten area seems to extend out around the edge of where the cabinet sat about a foot. Beyond that and the wood appears to be good. I pulled some of the linoleum up in the bathroom up to that cabinet since the sink is there and it appears to be fine. Under the sink I see no visible signs of a bad leak. I will need to hack out some of that linoleum though to be sure.

The rotten area is not over the AC compartment as I originally thought. That is further back. The area is also not under a window but is just to the left of one. It is directly over the rear wheel well. Again the wood almost looks burned but has no smell to it. I can drag the screwdriver thru it and it is just pulp and powder.    

The affected board appears to be a 3/4 in that is 4 ft x 9 ft or so. Runs one side of the coach to the other. Will I be able to cut out a section of it so I don't have to remove more cabinets and such on the other side? Plus I don't know how I can get a sheet that big in there anyways.


Todd Flickema
Sent from my iPhone

[Erniee]

I believe you can cut a piece at the floor joist, instead of the whole width of coach.

[Ozarkguy]

   
   
   
   

Here is a couple of photos of before and after.. Caused by leaking window in bedroom...that rotted floor