11-27-2022, 02:39 PM
(08-01-2022, 05:19 PM)Skypalace Wrote: Wow, some great info here! I have a Country Coach Lexa that has the same shower, and same issues, I hope it's ok if a non (Yet!) Newell owner takes advantage of all your expertise!
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-Jim
Thanks all for your help. FYI that I ordered the new joints, as well as the plastic trim piece. Three interesting tips I thought I'd point out, that weren't obvious to me.
1) When I took the center 'drooping" piece out, I could see that the joints were bent downwards from the weight of the door. I figured I'd try bending them back a bit - heck I had the replacements, so worst that happened is they'd snap. I used a large set of slip-joint pliers, and grabbed the joint where it slides into the center, with the jaws along the entire length of the piece, and the handles towards the opposite door post. With _slow_ but steady pressure lifting upwards on the end of the pliers handles (and holding down on the joint so that the pressure didn't lift anything off the post), I was able to slowly bend the joint back into place without snapping it. I went just a hair above center. Did this on both sides. Put the center back in, and all it great! So now I have two spare pieces, perhaps they'll break next time I try this.
2) When replacing the trim piece, and rolled it into place starting at the right corner, it was just a little bit too long by the time I got to the left hand post. I snipped the end with a set of side cutters. No biggy, but just might want to have handy when you're replacing this piece. I found it easiest to put one 'edge' of the piece into the slot (for me it was the outer edge) and then 'roll' the inner into place, rather than trying to snap it down vertically. I didn't need to do any pre-warming with this technique.
3) When adjusting the door, note that the top rollers are eccentric - the outer roller piece is NOT centered on the center bolt, but the center bolt itself has an offset profile. This allows you to adjust the roller height of each of the top two rollers. Just loosen the nut on the inside (behind the round plastic cover), and turn the screw slot on the other side, and you'll see that as the bolt rotates through 360 degrees, it will lift the roller up and down. This allowed me to adjust the door so that it was perfectly level, and in particular, that I got a complete tight seal along the right hand edge of the door, so no water spraying through the small gap I used to have at the top.
And thanks for the tip on the Newell Lexan custom-cut door holder. Much nicer than the bungie cord I'd been using, and doesn't pull the door roller off the top rail if you hit some of the nice potholes on I-5 near Sacramento...
