[mycbarnes]

I am trying to keep the three basement ac units going and each need attention. I am looking for another compressor, what is there is original to the unit and I am pretty sure Sanyo made it for Dometic. Duo-Therm part number 1318086 Sanyo # C-R100H2G/80608042. These are 115v R22 compressors, rating per Dometic 13,500 btu. Locked rotor amps 60, run amps 12.2. Odds of finding it under the Duo therm number is zero. The Sanyo number isn't coming up as a easy find either on web. I come close with some other manufactures old new stock on the web, but I'm not convinced yet on which to think is a good cross replacement. Maybe someone has already been through this and has a suggestion? Then if anyone has a lead on a replacement condenser coil, I can maybe fix them again and I bet everyone of these in service nationwide have the same rub spot and leak problem ( more on that in another thread) , but I think I read somewhere a cross over condenser coil from a John Deere cab tractor had exact same measurements and coil stack, but I can't find that lead again on the web. I have the equipment and R22, these units will freeze you out in Texas when working and worth keeping.

[Richard]

I think you will find Tecumseh, Ryobi, Panasonic, and Toshiba all make a garden variety 110V R22 13.5 compressor. I personally would use any of those. And I agree, I owned 390, and the kids called it the Meatlocker. Those dometic units were the precursors to today's mini splits.

Check all your wire nut connections. I like to replace wire nuts in those high amperage draws with AlumaConn connectors.

[Richard]

If you want pics and or dimensions, I have a couple of those compressors sitting in the shop.

[Keith Jordan]

390 was in 90 degree heat yesterday. 2 units on. 68 degrees inside. AlumiConn is yo friend.

[mycbarnes]

Hi Richard
Measurements if you can get them easy will help. Otherwise I have to make a 45 minute drive to my hangar to measure one. What I am finding is lots of r22 115v compressors, but the btu’s are 12,000, 13,200, 13,315 Which I think is subjective to how the manufacturer rates them depending on a expected temperature of evaporator and pressures. I’m probably ok with anything at 1hp and a close current load to original units. Although the displacement of compressor could be a factor. My guess is it’s not worth fretting over so long as I’m close.
I did find a 13,315btu 11.2amp match in a Panasonic  unit. But it’s backordered.

[BusNit]

Has anyone given thought to West Marines' offerings? They have split A/C's for boats.  This one in the pic is 16kbtu. Priced around $2400. Not water cooled either.


https://www.westmarine.com/dometic-16000...40508.html

[mycbarnes]

I had looked at those types last year as an alternative I thought they used sea water flow in a heat exchanger. You have to transfer the heat out from the compressed Freon somehow. I'll look at installation manual.

[Richard]

Hopefully the pics will give you the dimensions you need. If not ask for a specific measurement, and I am happy to provide. No, I don’t stockpile compressors. When I replaced all four of mine in an AC rebuild project, two of the new ones were slightly damaged in transit. When I whined about it to the shipper, they sent two replacements, so I kept the others as spares.

[mycbarnes]

Thanks Richard, this is proving very helpful. I thought I had a lead on a new old stock replacement, but it's taller and draws slightly more current. Which isn't a wanted, considering those control boards. I'm going to go back to hangar and try 115v right at compressor and clamp on amp meter it. Perhaps it's not  a locked or sticky rotor, instead being a relay or connections with resistance. Compressor comes on line, condenser fan comes on, line voltage starts at 120v then drops to 93v in 2-3 seconds and an internal breaker in compressor takes compressor out of circuit. Comprssor internal Breaker cools and cycle starts again. I can't get to it until next week though. I had thought I had lost the compressor when it blew a serious hole in the condenser coil and lots of oil was lost. I don't think there is a Freon low pressure switch in these units, so it ran awhile before we noticed cooling was lost.

[Richard]

The line voltage comment is interesting. And a big indicator that something is amiss. I totally agree with you on hanging the ammeter on the compressor leads to see what the what.

When I had those units, I had two issues that were intermingled. Both were high resistivity causing heat than consequent shutdown. The first was the wire nut connections previously mentioned. The second was a failing relay on the circuit board. As best I remember, there is a cube relay on the board, and the hot leg for the compressor plugs into the top of the relay. Kind of a different setup, but OK. I ended up replacing at least one of those relays. Both connections I speak of are in the silver box on top of the evap units.

How did you determine the charge weight when you repaired the leak?