[Richard]

SouthernDevGirl (or partner), sorry I don’t know which one of you I am addressing.

Yes the air systems can be overwhelming, and especially when you have a no air situation that disables the coach.

Let’s try some things to hopefully close in on the problem.
First thing is put the coach in LEVEL mode to isolate the airbags. If the behavior stops then you have a leaking airbag, leveling valve, or something in that system downstream from the leveling solenoids.

Second trick, if you can get a standalone air compressor to the coach, use the air chuck fitting in the rear to try and pressurize the system. It’s hard to hear an air leak with the engine running, and the standalone will cutdown on the background noise.

Third thing, listen carefully around the slide seals. It is really hard to build pressure with one of them blown.


An air leak that big should be relatively easy to find.

[hypoxia]

Latest leak which is probably not new, the Knoedler Air Chief driver seat.  I didn't find an obvious leak so I put a valve on the air line at the seat.  I need to repair or replace leaking bladders in the seat and repair a wire to a vibrate motor.  That project will go into the que.  I also would like to find an air and electric schematic for the seat.

How many minutes until the next leak rears it's ugly head! 

[bikestuff]

Jim, the Air Chief seat is a good one. Putting a valve in the airline is genius!

About the vibrate motor… If you lift the seat up you will find a baby controller about the size of a deck of cards. Each of the functions including the vibrators are plugged into the controller. It is super easy for the wires to unplug from the controller. That could cause one of the functions not to work.

As far as the air leak….

I had one leak that I traced down to the one of the bladder valves which are part of the switch mechanism. I just replaced the entire switch module. I got a replacement ($75) from seat-specialists.com but I cannot say they are the best / cheapest place to find one.

Bill

[360]

Latest leak which is probably not new, the Knoedler Air Chief driver seat.  I didn't find an obvious leak so I put a valve on the air line at the seat.  I need to repair or replace leaking bladders in the seat and repair a wire to a vibrate motor.  That project will go into the que.  I also would like to find an air and electric schematic for the seat.

How many minutes until the next leak rears it's ugly head! 

I used Seat Specialists as Bill did.  Just send an email to Dave Sterchele [email protected] and he'll get you fixed up with parts for an Air/Power Chief.

[hypoxia]

Wires were torn from the vibrate motor in the seat bottom, I suspect a tech was encountering resistance in lifting the seat and gave a good jerk.  Actually I think I just described him    No need to unplug when it's quicker to rip them out.

Busy installing a 10HP compressor pump on a new tank in my shop after the old tank started leaking.  I now have a spare 10 HP pump and a 10 HP 3 phase motor if anyone needs one.  Life without pneumatics is nearly impossible.  I tried out a two stage single cylinder pump but it couldn't keep up with my bead blaster so I'm putting my old 2 cylinder V pump on.  It is much smoother than the single.

[2BirdDogs]

Found a few bubbles today… I ordered a new Regulator / Booster from EBay and once I get the new one installed I plan to look at rebuilding the old one as a backup unit. Has anyone rebuilt one of these and know if there is a seal kit available?

Thanks,
Paul
   

[Richard]

I have rebuilt one, a long time ago. If I remember correctly, all the seals are normal o rings. I don’t have a record of their sizes. Easy on the lube when reassembling, there are a few small orifices that you do not want to occlude.

Our coach has a built in shutoff valve to the multiplier.

[Highlander4744]

Question:  Cold snap is coming. Should I put a 75 watt bulb in the 120vac compressor bay or hookup my HF compressor to shop air & rely on that for next 72 hours. Even here in Del Rio it plans to get into the teens!
Thx for your thoughts.

[hypoxia]

I have rebuilt one, a long time ago. If I remember correctly, all the seals are normal o rings. I don’t have a record of their sizes. Easy on the lube when reassembling, there are a few small orifices that you do not want to occlude.

Our coach has a built in shutoff valve to the multiplier.

Mine also has a shutoff valve which is probably a good idea to install while it is torn apart.  But then, I have installed shutoff valves on a lot of supply lines.  I don't consider brass NPT fittings very susceptible to leakage but some folks think adding any fitting is not worth the risk.

[2BirdDogs]

I have rebuilt one, a long time ago. If I remember correctly, all the seals are normal o rings. I don’t have a record of their sizes. Easy on the lube when reassembling, there are a few small orifices that you do not want to occlude.

Our coach has a built in shutoff valve to the multiplier.

Thank you Richard. I’ll take a shot at rebuild once I get the new replacement. I also have the shut off valve at the multiplier so can use that when not connected to shop air. 

An observation and question; I noticed that when I am back feeding via shop air at the multiplier AND I turn off the 120v compressor… the Bode air door and drivers air seat lose pressure. Is the coach’s main air supply tank not fed by the multiplier line when back feeding with shop air?