[dbld58]

I know this thread is old, but I'd like to lean on the experience here.  

The first image is a shot of my driver's side under the rear slide.  Does this look like the rivet issue to you all?

The second image is up front under the driver's window where the front cap meets the side.  In the storage bay underneath this seam I get water and there is some rust at the top of the bay just under this seam...looking for advice on fixing that seam too (2nd pic).

FWIW - I found the gasket for the side marker light was compromised and allowing water in.  It's a different place than the seam, but another thing for people to be aware of and inspect.

Thanks,

[Richard]

David, maybe on your first pic.

Please take a pic looking straight on at the eye level trim piece at the rear of the salon slide where it meets the coach. We need to see the vertical line of the opening at the rear of the slide.

[dbld58]

Hi Richard - this is a few months late, but here it is:

   

It looks pretty clear to me that it is tighter at the top vs the bottom.

[encantotom]

where the rivet issue is most visible is where the trim piece is that goes across the coach and the slide.  on the coach side.  i attached a couple of pictures so you can see what i mean.  

tom

[dbld58]

Three questions:

1) How much time would you set aside to do this job from start to finish on one side?

2) Is there more than one jacking point?

3) exactly where is(are) the jacking point(s)? - The pic earlier in the thread is a good indication, but I'd like to be certain.

Thanks.

[Richard]

Are you doing it, or is Newell doing it. It can easily be done in a day, give yourself an extra day for learning.

For the jacking point, look at the very rear of the salon slide. Open the basement door and you will see a vertical steel divider between the bays. Now go directly under that, and you will see the steel frame and a cross piece. That is the jacking point.

There are two schools of thought. Newell proposes to re rivet in place with the logic being the settling has occurred so just fixate and not transfer any stress to the aluminum skin. The second school of thought is to jack up the mid point until the rivet holes under the trim piece come back into alignment. Rivet those holes and add 200% more rivets. This does transfer the stress back to the aluminum skin. After all it IS a semi monocoque construction, and the skin is SUPPOSED to carry the stress. Just my .02

[Jack Houpe]

I guess this is something I should be looking at there is some misalignment, Newell is so close I might just pay them to do it. How important and issue is it, can it wait till Spring?

[Richard]

The two things to look for to determine how urgent the issue is are: Is the skin offset enough that it is scraping the slide of the slide out? And, the skin coming loose under the slide and around the slide provides a path for water ingress.

[dbld58]

What is special about the rivets that Newell supplies, and how long of a rivet is needed?

If I did this on my own I would use these stainless sealed rivets:

https://www.mcmaster.com/rivets/18-8-sta...nd-rivets/

The shear and tensile strength is several times that of an aluminum rivet.

[bikestuff]

If you want to tackle it yourself…talk to Newell. They were sending out the rivets free of charge. (Not sure if that is still a thing).

Bill