[Wanderman]

After much head scratching and several calls to Rudy for his most excellent advice, I have managed to get my Aquahot working on Diesel! I now have heat and hot water! Truly incredible. I cam take a hot shower again.(Believe me.. you WANT me to shower!)

Next up is replacing some cooked wires and the 120V element so it will work on Electric as well.

I am pleased. very pleased. I love Newell Good News! We should have a topic for triumphs and wins.

Also, also, my red light above the aquahot diesel switch doesan;t work, but then again neither does the cyberdyne gauge. i wonder if they get power from the aquahot bay??

Temp sensor...located! Does it have one or two wires attached to it??

Thanks!

[Richard]

One on the temp sensor.

[Wanderman]

So.. I have, in hand, the correct 120V 1650 Watt AH heating element. I am in process of running fresh wiring for the electric side of the AH in my Coach. The 240V one looks like's it's in good shape and ohms out properly.

The question: Is there a pressing need to have the 1650W element running at all?

My diesel side is running nicely and in order to replace the 120V element I will have to drain and refill the AH tank. That's assuming the 120V element will come out without a fight which may be doubtful.

Would there be a real impact losing 1650 Watts of heating?

[Trainer]

Rick, Abandoning the 120 vac element in place is just fine. The 240 vac elemnt will work fine as long as you are plugged into a 50 amp power post or your generator is running.

It would not work the very rare times you are connected to a 30 amp power post or to a shop's 20 amp power plug.

[Wanderman]

Rudy,
That's what i figured... I just have the OCD issue with things not working

Shouldn't the 240v element work on 120v at half power???

[Richard]

NO.

120V is one leg to neutral. 240V is one leg to the other leg, no neutral.

[Wanderman]

Ahh.. that explains it.

Thanks!