[Tf175]

Replacing the starter on the Kohler 12.5 kw generator in my 86 coach . Old starter is a Delco Remy which has " S" and "R" terminals on the solenoid . The "S" terminal connects to #5 wire from the control unit, obviously the start wire. The "R" terminal connects to # 8 wire and the wire to the run/stop solenoid. The replacement starter has only a single terminal for start .
My question : Can I simply connect the # 8 and run/stop wires to the starter field terminal ? Or should I add a relay to power said wires when starter switch is engaged ?
Would rather not smoke the controller or other parts .
Thank you,
Chris

[Tf175]

Okay , I think I have answered my own question after having time to consider the set up . If the #8 and run/ stop wires are connected to the starter motor wire , there will be voltage present after the switch is released , once the genny spools up . Therefore , I will add a relay or solenoid to the circuit which should work just fine .
Chris

[Tf175]

Generator starter update . New starter from DB Electric online $90 free shipping. Starter works fine , added solenoid to power wire #8 and run/stop solenoid during starting . Now I find the cooling fan motor stops after about 15 minutes , just picked up new motor . I suspect this is reason for generator shutting down on trip home last fall , blower probably stopped , temp went up to point that shut off activated .

[Richard]

Good posts, keep, coming. This is the type of info that will help a fellow guru one day.

[ccjohnson]

We had an issue with our Kohler intermittently shutting down. I could not figure it out. Took it to Loften Equipment in Phoenix, AZ. It turned out to be an in-line diode that I mistakenly thought was just a connector.

[Tf175]

Probably getting off point here from the original post , but I have now replaced the generator blower motor. On our 86 air is blown into the generator compartment . There is a steel box on the front of the radiator with an opening at the bottom . This routes the cooling air through the radiator from the engine side , through the box and hot air exits at the bottom through a "scoop" which diverts air to the rear . 
Apparently someone ran over something long ago , bending the scoop which had to be restricting the flow . I have removed the scoop to be straightened and reinstalled at a later date . In the interim I can't see what it will hurt to run it with air exiting straight down . 
I know from other postings that some coaches draw air in from the bottom . I realize the importance of sealing the compartment as well as possible to ensure max available cooling air goes where it's supposed to .
I ran the genny for a good hour this morning , temp stayed at 150 ( if gauge can be trusted) , ambient around 80 .
Something I recently discovered : the generator gauges only work when main key switch is on . I'm thinking about adding a switch to power these gauges when we're parked. On our race weekends the generator will sometimes run three days straight , would be nice to keep tabs on it.
Chris

[HoosierDaddy]

My gen gauges work when the gen is running

[Fulltiming]

Mine also.

[bikestuff]

My coach got the scoop crunched and forcibly removed. (The tow truck incident). I had to drive it from Knoxville to Miami and found that the generator really liked not having the scoop. It ran much cooler. Also, the scoop takes the hot air off the generator and routes it right to where the AC units are. That cant be good.

So...when I was at Newell, I asked them to make a simple deflector. Rather than the scoop, there is a simple piece of metal that deflects the hot air slightly towards the back of the coach. It looks nice from the front of coach (if you even notice it)....and keeps the hot air from hitting your feet as you walk by the front.

I have not looked in detail but my feeling is that the hot air now is dispersed in a much larger area and is not funneled towards the AC units.

Bill

[Tf175]

Input appreciated . I like the idea of a deflector , will probably fab an aluminum one in lieu of the scoop . Area where the scoop attaches is deteriorated anyway , will all have to be replaced down the road . I will look at wiring to see why gauges power off the key switch . One other thing , even with house and chassis batteries switched off , the cable to the generator starter is still hot . I know it comes from house batteries as I started generator some time ago when the chassis batteries were removed . Not a huge deal , just have to be careful .
Again , thanks for your knowledge and experience .
Chris