[RussWhite]

I have a possible explanation. At the small air tank located near the drive wheels on the passenger side ( if you have one there ) is a check valve. This valve's purpose is to retain pressure in that tank even when the main aux air goes low. Usually this tank serves the toilets and doors. I have found that the valve will whistle and sound like an air leak when air to entering that tank. So, if you are using air from that tank and air is entering from the main auxiliary air source, then you may hear the check valve and think it's a leak.

[Land Yacht]

Thanks Russ, your explanation makes sense about the check Valve whistling, but I don't understand what my newly installed valve to close off (isolate) the passenger dump air release valve would redirect air to the wheel tank and cause the check valve to whistle.

Is it harmful to have that happen? When opening the valve to return to the way it was my valve is still leaking and my compressor runs every 22 minutes, with the valve closed, I get hours. Obviously, I need to replace the air dump valve but wondering about my workaround and its feasibility.

[Land Yacht]

Ok I guess it is time to turn in my Guru card and possibly my man card :-(

I started the coach and let it idle in travel mode. The passenger side raised fine, and the drivers side rear only raised a bit, seemed like more on the tag and less on the driver axle if that is possible. I shut off the engine, and crawled between the drivers side rear wheels. Definitely could hear an air leak. I sprayed soapy water on the bag and some lines within reach until the coach started creaking and out of under I came... I know theoretically that the coach was already down as far as it could go at least on that side, but for me it is quite intimidating under there. Thus, I think I have to turn in my Guru card and call in the professionals.

I forgot to mention. When idling waiting for the coach to raise, I noticed that the supply would raise to 130, then I would hear a release of air like you do with the air brakes, the supply would then drop to 110, then gain back to 130, and repeat. After 2 times, I stopped the engine near 130, hoping to maximize the air pressure while hunting for the leak. I don't remember this before, is that normal?



Thanks for everyone's help.
Mike

[Chester Stone]

Sounds like the air dryer is topping off excess air when the maximum of 130 is achieved. This is normal. The air dryer should not be guilty of dropping 20 lbs of air but who knows.

[Richard]

Mike no one should do anything they feel is unsafe.
You probably need to call a road service mechanic
It may be the leak is so big the 120 pump doesn't supply enough volume to hear the leak

How do the air bags look? New, ok, or is rubber checking?

[HoosierDaddy]

Keep your Guru card, Mike. Your experience (and your willingness to share) are very helpful to each of your fellow Gurus. I decided I would NEVER get under my coach but I have on occasion as I have gotten more acclimated to it.

[RussWhite]

Mike - Please check the position of the tag air switch. It should be a three position rocker switch. Pushing in at the top puts full air in the tag bags, pushing in at the bottom dumps air from the tag bags, and it should be in the middle OFF position. You would not be the first person to inadvertently have it in the dump position. When that happens there is just not enough force from the drive bags to get the rear up. Probably not your problem, but please check.

[Land Yacht]

Mike - Please check the position of the tag air switch.  It should be a three position rocker switch.  Pushing in at the top puts full air in the tag bags, pushing in at the bottom dumps air from the tag bags, and it should be in the middle OFF position.  You would not be the first person to inadvertently have it in the dump position.  When that happens there is just not enough force from the drive bags to get the rear up.   Probably not your problem, but please check.

Hey Russ, thanks for the idea. I actually thought about that and checked that last night. However, you bring up a topic I do not fully understand - the tag 3 position switch. I do understand center is preferred travel position. When my switch is up I get a constant beeping audible alarm, and according to your thread above this completely fills the bag? What is the point or use?

When my switch is down, I have a dash light. This is the dump position?

Should I test with the switch up? I am definitely only having the problem on the right rear, as the coach will really lean when I start it, so am thinking the tag switch in the up position filling the bag will not make a difference. But then again, as I posted earlier, I am thinking the tag may have lifted some and the Drive was not, if the is possible or are they hooked together?

[Richard]

The purpose of the switch is to add or subtract weight from the tag. The switch can be used to add weight to the tag and subtract weight from the drive when passing through an Ohio toll booth where the axles are automatically weighed. I don't know if it's still true, but we used to be over the Ohio limit for a single axle.
It can be used to remove weight from the tag when turning a sharp corner or to add weight to the drive for traction. I actually used this once when the coach spun out on a snowy uphill.

The tags and the drive air bags are definitely hooked together. However, the switch activates a couple of three way valves that allow you to isolate the tag bags from the drive bags.

[Land Yacht]

The purpose of the switch is to add or subtract weight from the tag. The switch can be used to add weight to the tag and subtract weight from the drive when passing through an Ohio toll booth where the axles are automatically weighed. I don't know if it's still true, but we used to be over the Ohio limit for a single axle.
It can be used to remove weight from the tag when turning a sharp corner or to add weight to the drive for traction. I actually used this once when the coach spun out on a snowy uphill.

The tags and the drive air bags are definitely hooked together. However, the switch activates a couple of three way valves that allow you to isolate the tag bags from the drive bags.

Richard, per your last statement then depending on where the leak is, could it be possible to add air to the tag and possibly lift that side of the coach proving the air leak is between the Drive bag and the 3-way valves to isolate the tag bag from the Drive tag? Again, theoretical I don't think I would try it but this could this process help get somebody off the road? Just trying to learn all the possibilities...