Most leaks are small enough that there is time to easily get to a safe place to fix them and if they are large enough that the compressor runs continuously we will probably easily locate them by listening. While on the road the critical question is: how long do I have before I need to get to that safe place. I plan to take the first available safe place since I don't feel smart enough to predict if the leak will suddenly get a lot worse and create a road worthiness problem. Once in that safe working space, if I can fix the problem, fine. If not, then what workarounds are there that will allow me to move to a better location. The difference depends on the nature of the failure and of my knowledge of the air systems, tools I'm carrying and the availability of needed parts.
Had an air leak this week, pump was running every ten min. Looked everywhere except under coach, ran coach and adjusted height now pump comes on every two hours. Go figure
Ashley Pardue Coach 589
(This post was last modified: 03-06-2017, 09:12 AM by ashley.)
Ashley, I would carefully check the height control valves. If yours are plastic like mine, they can get brittle and crack developing quite the air leak in some positions while sealing at other levels.
(03-06-2017, 09:40 AM)Fulltiming Wrote: Ashley, I would carefully check the height control valves. If yours are plastic like mine, they can get brittle and crack developing quite the air leak in some positions while sealing at other levels.
Have had the same issue with ours off & on over the years. I haven't decided if it's temperature related or just some stray debris that once in a while gets caught up under an air leveling valve. The higher rate of flow from engine compressor I think may be blowing debris on past valve seat. I usually only notice it between 25 to 38 degrees F. But may not be paying much attention in other ranges. Also, it is not a continuous issue.
I'll dogpile on this one, since I have also had the unexplained air leak that seems to be connected to plastic bodied Ridewell HCVs. I replaced mine with a metal bodied HCV.
Some of the newer gurus might be scratching their heads and asking how does the HCV leak when the coach is in level mode? Don't the six pack valves isolate the HCV's? The six pack valves isolate the HCV from the airbag, there is a separate air supply line from the coach air supply that feeds the HCV. So if the body of the HCV is leaking, the air will drain quickly out of the system, and the coach will stay level.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
(This post was last modified: 03-07-2017, 05:37 AM by Richard.)
I drove my coach today just to exercise it and make sure all systems are go as we near the Bella Terra no-rally rally. When I stopped I could hear a big air leak in the front near the compressor. After I parked it back in the warehouse and leveled it. I went to investigate further. I could still hear the leak but was less pronounced than before. As I investigated further the leak lessened, I am guessing it is because the pressure was lower. I squirted joy soap and water from a sprayer but could not find bubbles to my surprise. Is there a better mixture for finding leaks?
I think it is coming from the drain solenoid (not sure what it is called but picture below). This will be my first air leak fix, and open to any and all suggestions. Do I need special tools or parts to make it easier and more realizable? Thanks Mike
Mike & Jeannie Ginn
2000 Newell #555 - sold July 2020
2019 Leisure Travel Van FX model
Mike that is a filter/drain to remove water out of the air system. Is it in the engine compartment? Or the generator compartment? There are 2 black plastic pieces that you slide down then rotate the bottom (probably counter clockwise) and pull it down. I think it is a bayonet mount. The o-ring where the bottom attaches is known to leak, also the glass or plastic can develop cracks over time. They are readily available on Amazon, ebay, Graingers, etc. There should be a valve at the bottom to drain the water collected, that could leak also. Another thing is the push-on fitting with blue air line are leakers also. Can you run the engine so that the pressure is at normal? Then you could spray everything, that filter, all fittings, even the hoses can develop splits and cracks. Any soapy solution works well from soap/water to windex. All you're looking for is the bubbles to become apparent with air leaks.
Thanks Forest. The filter/water separator is in the front passenger compartment just above the 110v air compressor. I regularly drain the water, just did not know what anything else about the device. When you mention about removing with the 2 black clips and turn counter clockwise and pull down.
Do I need to dump the coach air and turn off the compressor to do that work?
Can I just buy a new one and replace it with your instructions above?
What are the push on fittings? Do you know manufacturer?
Mike & Jeannie Ginn
2000 Newell #555 - sold July 2020
2019 Leisure Travel Van FX model
It depends on where the check valve is on your system. It could be either between the filter and compressor or on other side of the filter. If on other side then it should hold the pressure and you could remove it. Feeling lucky?
There should be numbers on it to match to a new one. Not sure of the manufacturer for the fittings, probably DOT rated fittings and any truck shop should have them. Some of us had changed those to ferrule type fittings to eliminate leaks.
Ashley Pardue Coach 589
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