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New problem with air brake pedal leak
#1

                    Hello,

I was working on problem with air leak from Air Brake pedal system and ran in to much bigger problem then I was asking for !

We are still stying at RV park for another week or so and hope to fix it.

What I was trying to do as severl mentioned to replace the air hose coming in to the air pedal cyclinder and its union to change to better fitting.
I tried to loose the brass nut by the pedal's brake cylinder & I think its head broke off! scary sound all the air come of the small hole , lots of it , all of it!

if the nut is broken off and its threads are still inside of the cylinder! Looks like big problem ! Iam going to figure out how to remove it?

I wanted to take the hose and the brass union and take to local NAPA and get new better fitting since the old one was leaking lot of air.

As Chester sugested Newell cut the hoses way to short and the hoses are stiff and puts lot of stress at angle and create air leak at the fitting part of it!

Please help if anyone has any tips!

Now looks like I need to replace entire hose section? is any of you knows where the other end of the hose goes? I noticed it swings to the left from the brake pedal, is perhaps somhere near generator area?
I have attched images of the brass nut and fitting parts.

Les

Les & Cheryl Korcala

Fulltime on the road hub base in Montana

Newell 2001 2 slide #582
security system 2 Rhodesians Ridgebacks (Basha & M'Kala)
Nissan Exterra 2007
Co-Motion "Robusta" tandem
Trek "madone" road bikes
Trek 5.8 MTb
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#2

Les,

You can use an Easy Out which should be real easy fix to get the brass tread part out of the body. I would add a section of air line and put a coupling in the line to make the line longer instead of running a new line all the way. You can give me a call if you like. 865-712-5610 Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New year.

1996 #422 and 2004 #689 with YELLOW Goldwing, BMW K1200S, RZR, Dodge Truck

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#3

Ron's got the best idea, an easy out should work. In a bind I've used a small file as an easy out. Jam it into the fitting and it should unscrew.

Forest & Cindy Olivier
1987 log cabin
2011 Roadtrek C210P
PO 1999 Foretravel 36'
1998 Newell 45' #486 

1993 Newell 39' #337 
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#4

Thanks Ron & Forest,
I went to store and got easy out tool set and used right size in the hole, toped lightly and used wrench on it.
Is very hard sitting in there! looks like some sort of sealer arond the tread, I tried with quite bit force with long laverage monkey wrench , it won't get free ?
Was wonder if I could use heat on it? perhaps some lube to loose the treads.
I am surprise to see that brass union be so tight !

Les & Cheryl Korcala

Fulltime on the road hub base in Montana

Newell 2001 2 slide #582
security system 2 Rhodesians Ridgebacks (Basha & M'Kala)
Nissan Exterra 2007
Co-Motion "Robusta" tandem
Trek "madone" road bikes
Trek 5.8 MTb
Reply
#5

Les

Be very careful with heat, the brake body has some seals and pistons internally that may not appreciate the torch. How long of a wrench? Is the ez out slipping or the brass just won't turn?

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#6

You could try something like PB Blaster, or other penetrating oil, but the teflon tape may prevent the oil from penetrating.
Another trick is to use vise grips if you can grab onto the edge of the fitting.
Good luck.

Forest & Cindy Olivier
1987 log cabin
2011 Roadtrek C210P
PO 1999 Foretravel 36'
1998 Newell 45' #486 

1993 Newell 39' #337 
Reply
#7

Hello,
yes, I am using vise grips as well as ajustable wrench all about 12" long ( gas pedal in in the way ) but I can work oround.
Problem is wrench is not slipping at all, I am just worry the easy out with twist and break off! it has small sqare tip and its 5/32 size

I did penetrate with some teflon oil, treads have some sort of off color locking paste on ( not white seal tape )

My wife is about to kill me now! we need to dump our black water ( tanks are full ! and no toilet tonight since compressor is pushing all the air trough the cylinder hole!
Some how my 12v compressor is showing 0 air on its gauge, so I can not back up with it either!

Is nyone would know if I can dump the blk water mechanicly by one of the black handle valve in the dump bay? i see several of them there , but dont want to make more horror story here!

Les & Cheryl Korcala

Fulltime on the road hub base in Montana

Newell 2001 2 slide #582
security system 2 Rhodesians Ridgebacks (Basha & M'Kala)
Nissan Exterra 2007
Co-Motion "Robusta" tandem
Trek "madone" road bikes
Trek 5.8 MTb
Reply
#8

Know it won't help now but as Tom has suggested to buy a few various fittings especially (don't remember what it's called) a plug so you can either pull off the supply line or cut it and plug it off. That way you can get air to all the other systems.
How hard would it be to remove the brake valve? You could bring it to a mechanic shop and they could probably get the old fitting out for you.
Also check the pedal, on mine it is screwed into the floor and can be easily removed.

Forest & Cindy Olivier
1987 log cabin
2011 Roadtrek C210P
PO 1999 Foretravel 36'
1998 Newell 45' #486 

1993 Newell 39' #337 
Reply
#9

Hello,
We were blowing fuses on the 12v compressor with 10a fuse, so lat week I switched to 10a and same problem, well I went up to 20a fuse ans compressor started to work ! so happy !!! air doors work so is toilet but we can not dump blk water!

Anyway we can dump it by hand I noticed there is round aluminum tube with black handle right above the discharge pipe, is that hand relase vale? if so, do you turn it, press or pull it? dont want to break anything or I will kiled twice by my wife!!

Les & Cheryl Korcala

Fulltime on the road hub base in Montana

Newell 2001 2 slide #582
security system 2 Rhodesians Ridgebacks (Basha & M'Kala)
Nissan Exterra 2007
Co-Motion "Robusta" tandem
Trek "madone" road bikes
Trek 5.8 MTb
Reply
#10

Les,
If the valve is closed the black handle should be down by the air cylinder. I have never had to dump manually, but I know you can manually just pull up on the handle to open the valve. I would shut off the 12V compressor, drain the air from the air tank in the right wheel well and then pull the handle straight up about 6"--I would drain the air just because I have never pulled up on the dump valve when it was under pressure. Is the air valve not working a new problem?

I agree with Forest. I would be removing the brake valve and taking it to a shop. They can help you get the right DOT fittings.

Steve Bare
1999 Newell 2 slide #531
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