[InfiLights]

I wanted to make sure all gauges meant all gauges--some times people give incorrect or incomplete info.  The only way all gauges can read zero, have no air in the 3 gallon air tank in the RR wheelwell is if a check valve has been installed AFTER your front slide seal regulator.  My coach is not built that way.  If my RR wheelwell tank goes to zero pressure both of my slide seals deflate.

I see....but wouldn't a check valve prevent the seal from deflating on command when the HWH key is engaged to move the slide ?

The concern on my part is that if the coach is stored with slides closed and no power to maintain the 12V compressor, the seals will all deflate then and allow water to get in (potentially) as the coach sits outside during a heavy rain or storm.....right ?

I need to figure out a way to keep those seals inflated with zero power and zero air after a while.....if it is even possible.....

[bikestuff]

Marius,

My coach is kinda like that. The rear seals stay inflated with the 12V pump but the front ones are tied to the 120V pump. (I have not determined if the coach was built this way or its a problem that needs to be solved) I just leave the 120V pump on and my seals stay inflated.

As far as I understand it, the coach is designed to either have air supplied by the pumps, or to have an external source of air plugged into the port near the engine. The seals will eventually deflate without a supply of air and that causes a lot of other issues.

If you must store the coach without any air pressure, then I would pull in the slides and tape up the gaps in the slides so that no water / varmints can enter.

bill

[Richard]

Yeah,

I agree with Bill. The only way I know of to store the coach with no power is to tape up the seal.

If the 12V will supply air to both seals, and they aren't leaking, then it will run a LONG time between charges on the house batteries.
If I had to store without shore power, that is where I would focus on the 12V system. Ensuring the check valve was functional at the juncture of the 12V piping and supply piping, that the 12v did indeed supply air to both seals, and that the 12v piping (doors, potties, and seals) was as airtight as possible.

[InfiLights]

Yeah,

I agree with Bill. The only way I know of to store the coach with no power is to tape up the seal.

If the 12V will supply air to both seals, and they aren't leaking, then it will run a LONG time between charges on the house batteries.
If I had to store without shore power, that is where I would focus on the 12V system. Ensuring the check valve was functional at the juncture of the 12V piping and supply piping, that the 12v did indeed supply air to both seals, and that the 12v piping (doors, potties, and seals) was as airtight as possible.

Got it. Thanks.

Main slide awning issue....as in missing completely. ...must have forgotten to unhook the latch and ripped everything to pieces....those locks are dangerous...

Rear slide topper OK. Front one..no tube, no arms just the hardware on the face of the slides.

I called Zip-Dee and get a replacement. I think they are all the same length and shape for that vintage fro the front slide. They want a serial number, Newell does not have it. Spoke with Dwight in Service....

Does anybody have info on that topper ? Length center to center top of brackets ? Width of the fabric ? Maybe a serial number so that Zip-Dee can duplicate it in my fabric color ? Any info is appreciated.

I will order the passenger window awning as well at the same time (fabric ripped). The bedroom slide topper is in good shape.

[Fulltiming]

Remembering the mantra "no two Newells are alike", another coach might not have the same length awnings, especially over a slide since slide lengths vary considerably. Although the main awning was missing on my coach when I bought it, the window awnings were intact so ZipDee was able to match the color from a photo of one of the window awnings.

[Richard]

Look for a small tag on the existing awning. It will have the sunbrella fabric code on it

[pairodice]

We ordered an awning recently from ZipDee to replace the one on the living room slide (as you said the PO ripped the old one off). The awning we chose extends out over the window and shades the window. It works GREAT and keeps the limbs, leaves, rain off the top of the slide room - your slide room will probably leak like ours did without the awning if it's an HWH. Read our posts about the slide room... You will learn to just start the engine and merge the batteries when you are running the slide rooms in/out.
As far as the bay door keys go: do you have the electric solenoid locks (you don't need no stinking keys). Our switch for ALL the bay doors is just inside the entry door on a panel. I am in the process of replacing some of my solenoids but it is so worth it not to have to mess with keys!

[ccjohnson]

We ordered an awning recently from ZipDee to replace the one on the living room slide (as you said the PO ripped the old one off).  The awning we chose extends out over the window and shades the window.  It works GREAT and keeps the limbs, leaves, rain off the top of the slide room - your slide room will probably leak like ours did without the awning if it's an HWH.  Read our posts about the slide room...  You will learn to just start the engine and merge the batteries when you are running the slide rooms in/out.  
As far as the bay door keys go:  do you have the electric solenoid locks (you don't need no stinking keys).  Our switch for ALL the bay doors is just inside the entry door on a panel.  I am in the process of replacing some of my solenoids but it is so worth it not to have to mess with keys!

We took ours to a locksmith when we first got it to get the safe opened & get a key made for it.  They made keys for bay doors at the same time.  Was pretty reasonable price wise.  After that I bought all new locks keyed alike and installed them myself when I was replacing faulty lock solenoids. Had to do some tial & error to get solenoid & key to both work together.  Also I got used solenoids from a wrecking yard and had some extensions welded on to get length right.  After all this I saw on here where Gurus had bought brand new solenoids on line for almost as cheap.

[InfiLights]

Thank you all for chiming in.

I got the Southco push latch doors sorted out with a Ch751 key. Then all the paddle locks for the pantograph were CH545.
No key yet for the alarm switch and the Radiator fill door in the upper driver side rear corner. They are important and need to find those keys or re-key them.

The power locks are ok but I read the posts about changing actuators to refresh the locking system. Will likely do that soon.

I have to adjust all pantograph doors to close tighter and better but first I will replace all the rubber seals.

Noticed that the entry door seems to be a bit pulled out at the top left corner and not sealing well when closed. Any trick to straighten it ?

I am afraid one of my generator ram hoses is leaking - getting red fluid under the front end. Read the posts about the trouble some have had as well. Is this something I can take to HWH to repair ? We have a service center in Elkhart.

[Richard]

Marius

Since you have broken the code on the bay door keys and it's exactly the same as mine, the radiator door key on mine is R01