[Richard]

I developed a buzzing or whirring noise from the engine compartment that tracked engine RPM. At approximately the same time I noticed the engine running about 10 degrees cooler than normal and the fuel mileage dropped about O.5 mpg. 

Normally when the engine runs cool and the mileage drops I suspect the coil that opens the low speed circuit for the fan has died. The default position of the hi lo valve is hi. This is the valve and coil on the side of the brass block at lower left of engine. The hoses from the hyd pump enter the block and the hoses to and fro the fan motor enter the bottom of the block. 

So, the coil failed the first test. A steel washer wouldn't stick to it with the ignition on. It also failed a more scientific test when it ohmed as an open circuit. I replaced the coil. BTW, it is Eaton 300AA0095A MCSCJ012DW0B0010.

That didn't fix the cool engine or the buzz. I put a mechanics stethoscope on everything back there, and the loudest origin was at the hose ends for the fan. I found some obscure posts on hydraulic systems that mentioned that leaking valves can cause noise in hyd systems. I ordered and replaced the valve. It's a Vickers part SV-16-c-0-0.  I didn't take the old one out till I had the new one so I could do a quick swap and minimize fluid loss. The old valve would only open a small stroke. The problem was solved with the new valve. Buzz  is gone, and engine temps are back to normal. 

Hopefully this will help someone in the future. 

[encantotom]

where did you buy the coil and valve?

tom

[rheavn]

any possibility of a link to each?

[MrE]

Great post Richard and thank you for sharing. I use this site a lot for researching issues.

[RussWhite]

The valve not shifting completely causes extra current to be drawn by the coil and that is the likely reason for the coil burning open. Thankfully most problems have a root cause. Thanks Richard for the very interesting post. I look forward to more detailed information and links to order spares. Russ

[whatsnewell]

As always, Richard, interesting post......

[Richard]

I got the parts from Newell becwise I needed them overnight. I posted the part numbers so you could paste them into giggle. Many sources out there.

[RussWhite]

I've invested a little time trying to add the valve and solenoid to my spares.  In case you decided to do the same, here is where I am so far.


The P/N give for the valve itself did not match.  I think there is a 1 missing after the SV.   In any event, this is the P/N on my coach:

SV1-16-c-0-00     I have attached the data sheet from Vickers explaining the part number breakdown.   It also shows the part numbers for the compatible coils.  None of those part numbers came anywhere close to the P/N Richard shows for the coil.  The P/N for the coil on my coach, and also matching the data sheet is:

02-178063  - it of course is 12VDC

One can also change the P/N to become a valve and coil by changing the last two digits of the valve P/N to 12D

I have had no luck finding the solenoid alone, or the valve and solenoid together.
I was able to source the valve from edraulicsdirect.com for $60 delivered.

If you find a source for the solenoid, please post it!

Russ

[Richard]

    Russ is right about the missing one on the valve. Here is a pic of the solenoid

[RussWhite]

What's Steve fond of saying, "All Newells are different?" My solenoid is different. It has a pigtail that plugs into the wiring harness and matches the number on the data sheet. Something changed along the way but I suspect either would work with just a connector modification. Russ