[folivier]

Remember righty tighty lefty loosey. Sometimes it's confusing if you aren't looking directly at it. Yes, I've made that mistake before.
Probably has some road grime up in the threads. Try spraying some hot soapy water up around the rim.

[qcj]

Forest, there is the word lock and an arrow on the edge of the cap. I know it can be confusing some times.
Tom, I am with you. I like to have things working also and if I did get this working I might use it once or twice and it probably would be for convenience only. Not worth the money or effort. As I said this is the first coach I've owned that had a right hand dump. It probably has never been used and this is the reason it doesn't work. I will try one more time to get it off and if I can't I will move on over to the left side and service those two and leave the right side as it is.

One more time did it. Could be first time it was off in 15 years. Lots of gavel and dirt on the tabs. Will service the air cylinder and hope $20.00 of parts will do it.

[qcj]

Well it looks like I've open a can of worms. When taking my dump cylinder out part of it stayed inside. It seem there was a post by Steve where a similar thing happen to him. I was unable to find the post. The whole valve assembly will have to be replaced. The rod is pitted with rust and bottom half broke and stayed inside housing. I would like to try to get it out if possible without cutting the sewer pipe. There is no working room in this bay. Either that or just put the thing back together and hope parts of it does not float into the holding tank. I plan to get as much as I can out.
A new valve assembly is about $160.00 and if it comes to that I don't mind paying that. I would probably put the new one on the other side that is used all the time. I am sure the problem with this one is that it was never used.
I noticed that all three valves have caulking around the top. I would think the new O rings would would take care of any leaking?? Maybe at one time they were serviced without new O rings. This is not my day.







   

[rheavn]

Chappell ,
If still interested, go to plumbing and scroll down to "dump valves".

[qcj]

Thanks Steve found it. I was looking in the wrong place. I was looking under "your member" list post.
The problem I might have is getting the other plastic half out. It is probably stuck really good other wise would not have broken.
You mentioned two air valves and one manual. All three of mine are air.
The one I always use is not leaking but I plan to service it anyway along with the one that stays open all the time, and no reason for it to be air operated but is. Just something else to cause an air leak.
I have a 2 foot long flexible thing I call a grabber, where when you push a thumb button on the top end it opens a 3 prong grabber on the other end and also have a small snake much like yours, if I can find it. It's the plastic part I'm concerned about getting out. Thanks

[Ozarkguy]

Chappell ..since you very seldom use it, and I know it would be a downgrade but, what about replacing it with a manual valve..would that cost less? Or be less of a headache? Just thinking again...

[folivier]

The rubber disc hopefully is still attached to the bottom plastic piece. If not then maybe you can use a long screwdriver to push down on one side to get it to roll some. If you can then maybe you can grab the piece better. Or if you have a pair of really big long nose pliers you might be able to grab it. Welding supply places might have a pair of pliers like that.
Good luck.

[qcj]

Jimmy, I don't consider it a down grade but rather a good idea. For 26 bucks rather than 160 why not. Only may use it at most a couple times a year and since I've already have a inline air cut off this will give a spare solenoid if I should ever need it. I'll check and make sure manual will fit the air housing. Right now I am still working to get the rubber seal out.

Forest, it is in there. I will get it out but will take time. I am able to get a long nose pliers to grab it but not able yet to pull it out. I have a snake and trying it from the dump end. So far no luck. When I use the snake I do put the large screw driver in there so I want push the rubber seal into the tank. I will keep fooling with it and get it out one way or another. I did get part of the broken plastic out.

Man this is dirty work.

[Richard]

When that very thing happened to me, the steel rod pulled out of the plastic wedge. And yeah it was in a tight place . Hmmmmmmm. What to do. No way of grabbing the wedge. So I found a lag bolt, with coarse lag threads, and heated it with the torch just hot enough to soften the plastic. I would thread it in the wedge until it cooled enough so it was hard to turn. Back it out and do it again. It took about four tries before I had about two inches threaded into the wedge. I put washers on the lag bolt the last time and pried against the washers to break the wedge loose.

[qcj]

    Richard, the problem here is I don't have anything to grab but the rubber seal, and it must be at a angle or swollen and when I pull it with long nose pliers it doesn't want to come. The top half of the plastic wedge came with the cylinder. I have taken a mirrow and looked down in there and I see nothing but rubber. I will try again tomorrow