Our Microphor toilet was not cycling correctly, the flapper valve only staying open for about 1 second. I removed the air & water sequence valve and installed an overhaul kit. Well, that did not make any difference and with closer inspection I found that air was leaking at the base area of the sequence valve. There is a hairline crack running between the 2 threaded port holes for the 2 bottom air lines, it is very hard to see and could only be found with soapy water and while having the valve partially removed from toilet and leaving some air lines connected to test. Mullaney sells an air & water sequence valve body #39386 but not yet confirmed by Mullaney that this body will work on a LF210 by just swapping parts from the old valve and overhaul kit. He wasn't sure about an internal check valve. So my question is, has anyone used valve body 39386 on a LF210? Or as a long shot, does anyone have a older style black body like mine they would sell? Picture has pen pointing to crack area and what my valve looks like.
Thanks!
Terry & Cherie 95 Newell, 45', FMCA Show Coach, Series 60, Allison HT741 4spd, #373
I have used the new style grey valve in place of the older black valve. My black valve cracked just like yours. The grey valve is a more robust design.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
Thank you George and Richard, Mullaney sells just the gray valve body and you can move your inner parts from the gray valve you are replacing, (he wasn't sure yet if my black inner parts would swap to new gray valve) or you can buy the whole valve complete with the internal pieces. I won't post their pricing to be fair since this post may last a long time, but it's safe to say that if you are able to move your internal parts to the newer valve body you save considerably. Since I had the investment already in the overhaul kit for the valve that converts to the new style closed end cap I was hoping to get away with just getting the newer gray body valve and moving the parts. Thank you for reporting that the new style gray valve will fit in my circa LF210. I had considered trying to JB Weld the crack since it's hairline. But the expansion of the crack is a lot more than one might think even at these pressures, it probably would not last over time and there are just some items on the coach you want as reliable as possible. When I get this fixed I will post how it worked out.
Terry
Terry & Cherie 95 Newell, 45', FMCA Show Coach, Series 60, Allison HT741 4spd, #373
Well I got the toilet working properly and I want to make sure I explain how I did it so it makes sense in relation to my first post. My LF210 wasn't flushing correctly, the flapper valve would only briefly open and it did not pressurize the hopper properly either. So I ordered an air water sequence valve service kit PN 95187 and installed it in the original black sequence valve. Put it back in the toilet, but still did had the same problem. That was when I determined that the black sequence valve had cracked at the bottom of the valve. A replacement new gray style sequence valve as a complete unit is not inexpensive, but it is an upgraded gray body valve that is much more robust. Since I had about $130 in the PN 95187 service kit, I was hoping to use the just purchased service kit and try and outfit just a gray valve ( body only ) that is available as a blank. ( pn 39386 ) But I wasn't sure if all of what is in the PN 95187 service kit will make a complete sequence valve if the parts that are lacking could be used from the old black valve. So the answer is, yes, you use all of what is in the 95187 service kit and then reuse the piston ( pn 39510 ) from the old black valve and using the new gray body blank, you end up with a complete air water sequence valve. Is this something I would tell people is the way to go if you need a new air water sequence valve? Not really unless your situation was just like mine and you have a fresh PN 95187 service kit already, a unusable old black valve and you can get a blank gray valve body only, then spend the time to build up and test before install. In the long run, it maybe better to just order an already built up sequence valve. There are some important hints on swapping black for gray valves, or installation of the service kit in either valve I will post in another thread. Below is a picture of a old black style valve, the old style open end cap stem ( a water leak failure point ), the new style closed end cap stem and a new style body only gray valve body.
Terry & Cherie 95 Newell, 45', FMCA Show Coach, Series 60, Allison HT741 4spd, #373
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