[Richard]

I used rivets from Byler, but I don’t remember the details. I did use 5/16, so I redrilled the existing holes to accommodate the larger diameter. It takes two different lengths because a few of them also align with the vertical spars in the coach structure. Then I put 2X that many between the existing rivets.

You do want to use a drill collar and only penetrate the overlapping skins. One owner put a hole in a hydraulic line when drilling the holes. I went with aluminum ones to preclude the possibility of galvanic corrosion, but that may have been overthinking it. I did mine about five years and 50,000 miles ago, and it is still holding.

If you decide to DIY, go the Harbor Fright and get the heavy duty air powered rivet gun. You will appreciate it.

Oh yeah, one more trick. If you go the “jack it up till the holes align” method, park the coach with sun shining on the side you are riveting. The heat helps the existing adhesive that is holding the skin to the spars loosen and move.

Newell was doing the re rivet for free if you brought the coach to them.

[encantotom]

i jacked mine up till the holes aligned. then i used alum rivets in the original holes, and then 2 stainless rivets in between each original pair of alum rivets. and on the very last old rivet i drilled out, i hit the hydraulic line for the rear drivers side bedroom slide pins.....ughh. the line was flush up against the skin of the coach because the foam pushed it there.

on my coach i did in between the two drivers side slides by jacking up where richard said. i also had an issue between the rear of the drivers side bedroom slide and the rear end cap so i jacked up there as well. that is where i had the problem. the line was ony a few inches from the edge of the slide.

richard was kind when he didnt name me as being the silly one.

tom

[dbld58]

So I pulled off some of the molding and all rivets are intact. Does it look like the repair has been done to you guys?  

To me, I think the repair was done without jacking. 

Newell advised not to Jack unless there was interference between a slide and the body skin.  Looks like that’s what I have here. 

       

[Richard]

Hard to say.

The sealant may be holding the rivet head in place. Try to pull one of them out.

If you look at the right hand side of the second pic, you can see the upper skin shifted to the rear, and someone at some time simply filed it away to line up with the lower skin.

And I agree, if a repair was done, it was without jacking up the coach and realigning the skins.

[dbld58]

Thanks Richard - good eye. Yes it was filed. When I spoke to Newell he mentioned filing that part and I didn't quite understand what he was taking about until now...especially because he said to be very careful to avoid damaging the slide seal.

I called Newell again today to find out if they did the inspection and repair. I told him my situation and he mentioned it wouldn't be a bad idea to add some rivets if there is space, which there is. If I learn that they did the repair, I'll add the rivets. If not...I'll have to think about it. I'm selling the coach and want to make sure it is right for the next steward.

[Jack Houpe]

Well I started on the rivet repair of our coach, followed the gurus directions and my trim piece would not come off with block of wood and dead blow hammer its stuck on with double sided sticky tape and its not easy to remove. I am certain it didn't come from the factory like this correct? I have many different sizes of aircraft rivets and a phonematic gun, I will replace all the old aluminum with aircraft rivets. Almost all the factory installed rivets came out with a pick. The screws all spun in their holes.

Any word of warning is much appreciated.

[folivier]

I've heard monofilament fishing line works ok to cut the 3m tape off.

[Richard]

Drill collar, there are lines, pipes, and wires in the walls. Put a bottle jack under the structure just at the rear of the front slide. Raise jack until holes realign. Look closely at juncture of slide opening to coach to ensure it has not puckered or pulled away. Thats a water intrusion issue if it has.

3M adhesive remover dribbled into the adhesive tape will help it come loose. I guess that was a later repair by a previous owner.

[Jack Houpe]

Forest to late but great idea, I used a wooden dowel rod and mother nature and its working great just can't rush it. I put the dowel rod under the trim and the sun started to pull it off the coach, might be tomorrow before its off but its working.

Richard I forgot about the electrical lines and plumbing! Great information about drilling!

I have a dozen of the plastic pucks waiting for me at Newell, not sure how many the siding trim had but that should cover it.