[Flick]

Hey fellas. I've never had the issue Guy is describing. The blower threw the fan belt once and it overheated and shut down like it was supposed to. Also the mechanic figured out that the blower did not cool efficiently unless the genset door to the blower was closed. He said if it was open it did not draw the air it needed to onto the genset and the automotic shut off for excessive heat would kick the motor off. It has always taken 1-3 tries to start it though. No long starts just usually one flip. Then the second time I would flip it again and as it would begin to want to wind down I would hit it once more and she would start up.

[Guy]

Hey fellas. I've never had the issue Guy is describing. The blower threw the fan belt once and it overheated and shut down like it was supposed to. Also the mechanic figured out that the blower did not cool efficiently unless the genset door to the blower was closed. He said if it was open it did not draw the air it needed to onto the genset and the automotic shut off for excessive heat would kick the motor off. It has always taken 1-3 tries to start it though. No long starts just usually one flip. Then the second time I would flip it again and as it would begin to want to wind down I would hit it once more and she would start up.

Let it be known that Todd did the big stuff, for which I am so grateful. ( Engine, trans, brakes, cooling systems, tires and a beautiful interior rehab and too much other stuff to mention.). I managed to get home with no problems, 1800 + miles, quite a feat on a 33 year old coach which I am a total greenhorn with, a real tribute to Todd's workmanship. Over the continental divide twice, 100+ temps for 2 days, way too many 6% grades  and all was well. Engine never hit 190 degrees. I even dealt with Las Vegas and Los Angeles traffic. As I post questions here, I want all to understand that these are things that just happen on coaches, old and new. Because we are not going to be full timing for 9 months, I am going to be looking for problems, perceived problems ,and solutions..  I will be asking for lots of advice. I don't want anyone to think that this coach is trouble. It is a joy. If Todd has another coach for sale at a later date, we would be the first  in line to purchase it.

[bestgenman]

Guy, we talked via phone about your solenoid but I want to add some other info that might help diagnose your problem.

If you hold the solenoid plunger in and crank the engine it should start.  It needs fuel under pressure of about 5psi to the injection pump (that's the device with the steel lines going to the injectors).  If fuel is not there it won't start or will run starved for fuel.  Filters, both primary and secondary (if you have both, some do not) electric lift pump and fuel lines all affect fuel delivery.  It's a process of elimination, check pressure, replace filters, inspect lines and fittings.  Do not assume a line is tightly attached to a fitting because it is not leaking, it may be allowing the entrance of air which causes rough running or low power.  Some lines use fittings similar to a hydraulic hose and yet others are hose slipped over barbed fittings, these are the most problematic. 

Richard had a smoking problem related to low fuel pressure of the electric pump, when changed, the smoking disappeared if I remember correctly.  So, check all the above.  The engine must have air to breathe so inspect you air filter as well.  If it is restricted, the exhaust will show signs of black smoke indicating improper air/fuel ratio.

you have my number, feel free to call

[77newell]

I don't know what exactly is going on, but my betting self is saying the shutoff is being driven by something getting hot, this is consistent with the inability to restart right away (until things cool off). If your Gen has the Perkins engine then I would be looking at the shutdown solenoid since it is located n the engine. Afterit shuts down holding the solenoid linkage in the run position will tell you whether it is a fuel ptoblem or an electrical one as Gordon pointed out.

[Guy]

I don't know what exactly is going on, but my betting self is saying the shutoff is being driven by something getting hot, this is consistent with the inability to restart right away (until things cool off). If your Gen has the Perkins engine then I would be looking at the shutdown solenoid since it is located n the engine. Afterit shuts down holding the solenoid linkage in the run position will tell you whether it is a fuel ptoblem or an electrical one as Gordon pointed out.

Fired up the gen today and ran it for 3 hrs under load. Ran perfectly. I will now look for other problems that don't exist> I have a 3 position dash switch I am not clear about


Does anyone know the what the difference is between   "merge chassis with house" and "merge house with chassis" ?


:D

[Richard]

Yes, this one is easy and makes common sense.

The switch actuates a merge solenoid in the rear of the coach that electrically connects the house battery bank and the chassis battery bank. Handy, if the chassis batteries are down and you need a boost to get the coach started. Also useful if you want to charge the chassis batteries with the onboard charger.

Warning leaving them merged all the time gives you NO protection against draining the start (chassis) batteries when dry camping.

The reason it is a two position switch is that the solenoid requires voltage to operate. If it were only to use one bank of batteries for the trigger, then if that bank were dead, you could not merge. Giving you the option of using either bank to trigger the merge switch allows you to use the bank that is not dead.

[Guy]

Yes, this one is easy and makes common sense.

The switch actuates a merge solenoid in the rear of the coach that electrically connects the house battery bank and the chassis battery bank. Handy, if the chassis batteries are down and you need a boost to get the coach started. Also useful if you want to charge the chassis batteries with the onboard charger.

Warning leaving them merged all the time gives you NO protection against draining the start (chassis) batteries when dry camping.

The reason it is a two position switch is that the solenoid requires voltage to operate. If it were only to use one bank of batteries for the trigger, then if that bank were dead, you could not merge. Giving you the option of using either bank to trigger the merge switch allows you to use the bank that is not dead.

Richard thank you !

Yes, now I get it.  electrically it has the same result, just changes the supply source for powering the solenoid. Will the gen set only charge the chassis batteries up when it is in the merge position?

[whatsnewell]

The interesting thing here is I leave my merge switch in the 'OFF' position all the time and my chassis and house batteries charge. I've only used the merge switch once, or twice when my chassis batteries needed a boost back when I first got my Newell.....back then I was only using it every other month for trips and I had not yet learned I had 4 different switches that when turned off would completely isolate not only the house batteries, but the chassis batteries from any parasitic draws. Now I live in it full time and when dry camping I can isolate the chassis batteries completely so they barely discharge over a couple of weeks......my solar panels keep the house batteries topped off, and recharge them quickly each day when dry camping.

[Richard]

Guy,

The answer to your question is "it depends"

Some Newells are wired so that the merge switch is energized any time the engine is running. Some are not. Some have a trickle or echo charger that will automatically charge the chassis batteries if the house batteries are above a predetermined voltage.

You will have to play around with a voltmeter and some snooping to understand YOUR particulars.

[Guy]

The interesting thing here is I leave my merge switch in the 'OFF' position all the time and my chassis and house batteries charge.  I've only used the merge switch once, or twice when my chassis batteries needed a boost back when I first got my Newell.....back then I was only using it every other month for trips and I had not yet learned I had 4 different switches that when turned off would completely isolate not only the house batteries, but the chassis batteries from any parasitic draws.  Now I live in it full time and when dry camping I can isolate the chassis batteries completely so they barely discharge over a couple of weeks......my solar panels keep the house batteries topped off, and recharge them quickly each day when dry camping.

Thanks Clarke. I know there is an isolation switch in the outside cabinet next to drivers door for  the house batteries, and a chassis battery isolation switch in the engine bay passenger side firewall. Todd was able to store the coach all winter and it fired up in spring.

---

Guy,

The answer to your question is "it depends"

Some Newells are wired so that the merge switch is energized any time the engine is running. Some are not. Some have a trickle or echo charger that will automatically charge the chassis batteries if the house batteries are above a predetermined voltage.

You will have to play around with a voltmeter and some snooping to understand YOUR particulars.

Thank you. The more I learn, the more I don't know . I can't  tell you how much I appreciate you Guru's....