[Richard]

The shop air did NOT blow your slide seal. Not saying you don’t have a blown seal, you will not hear it with the engine running, but putting air into the air chuck with an external compressor is NO different than putting air into the system with the engine compressor.

There are all kinds of info in your previous comments on this thread and your ride height thread.

The 120V compressor does not work.
I have a massive leak down.
I only hear air when hooked to shop air.

Let’s take these one at a time..

I only hear air when hooked to shop air. Well, you cannot hear an air leak with the engine running, especially since you have hinted the muffler is kaput. Use the shop air to find your leak, turn down the regulator on the shop air to 30 or so, to help locate the leak without causing a hurricane.

I have a massive leak down. Can you quantify this. Build to 120, turn off the engine, and how many minutes to lose 40 psi on the gauge?

The 120V pump doesn’t work. First is is getting power? A voltmeter will tell you that. Is it getting power but not turning? Bad capacitor or burned up motor. Is it turning? Disconnect the air line at the pump and install a gauge to see if the pump willl make pressure. Given the coach is new to you, and with the air leak issues, the 120V air compressor took a beating.

One thing you want to do while under a cribbed coach is bleed the round wet tank in the rear, the two round brake tanks in the front, and the ping tank in the passenger drive tire well. You likely have water in those tanks from the compressor running incessantly due to the leaks.

[Jack Houpe]

Back to post #8 you say that you replace the ride height valve but it does not come up high enough, did you replace the valve with the same part number as the one you removed? Do you hear air escaping from the valve from the exhaust port side?

[Gem930]

I’m not sure about the part numbers as there were 3 new valves in boxes  when I bought the coach.  However, I manually held the lever on the valve up prior to connecting it to the rod connected to the axle.  The bag inflated and raised the coach , but would only raise the coach to 11.75”, so my thinking is even if the part was wrong the linkage of the valve was bypassed by holding it up manually and the coach would still only get to 11.75”.  

To answer the bleed down time  question it appears to drop about 30 lbs an hour until 60 psi ( when the protection valves kick in)  then it took 10 hours to drop to 30 psi (from 60psi).

[Jack Houpe]

I was trying to confirm the last thing you did before you noticed the massive air leak, if plumbed incorrectly you'll have constant exhaust leak on the ride height valve. I think they are a left and a right valve and one will not work on the other. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

[Richard]

One other thing to consider which has bitten at least two other owners is this. The air bags in the rear are very close to being undersized, which means they take a full 120 psi to raise the coach. It shows up on the left rear because this is the heaviest corner.

It would be a quick sanity check to do one of two things to eliminate this potential factor. One, put a quick connnect fitting on a good gauge and stick it in the port in the rear. Two, hook it back up to shop air and turn the regulator up to 125 psi.

I would take a Quick Look at this before I investigated valves and bags.