[[email protected]]

John,

No problem just installing the compressor. You will have to ensure that you have a pressure switch AND and compression relief path.

That may already exist in the coach.

Or you can easily plumb your own.

I am planning to just install compressor and use the Valid electrical/pressure control. I am not sure what to do with the line that goes to the electrical switch. see picture shows two linnes at junction. one going under switch. second picture shows under the switch.

[cwl1979]

John,

No problem just installing the compressor. You will have to ensure that you have a pressure switch AND and compression relief path.

That may already exist in the coach.

Or you can easily plumb your own.

I am planning to just install compressor and use the Valid electrical/pressure control. I am not sure what to do with the line that goes to the electrical switch. see picture shows two lines at junction. one going under switch. second picture shows under the switch.

Hope this helps

[Richard]

John,

I am confused about what you are asking. If you are going to utilize all the existing plumbing up to the compressor connection, then the outlet on the side of the compressor as Carl has indicated is where you will marry the systems. You will disconnect the three wires inside the pressure switch, white black and green. Then you will simply swap one compressor for the other.

You will not utilize the line going to the pressure switch.

One thing to look out for the connections on the compressor may be metric or BSPP. McMaster Carr is your friend when transitioning from metric to NPT.

[[email protected]]

John,

I am confused about what you are asking. If you are going to utilize all the existing plumbing up to the compressor connection, then the outlet on the side of the compressor as Carl has indicated is where you will marry the systems. You will disconnect the three wires inside the pressure switch, white black and green. Then you will simply swap one compressor for the other.

You will not utilize the line going to the pressure switch.

One thing to look out for the connections on the compressor may be metric or BSPP. McMaster Carr is your friend when transitioning from metric to NPT.


I am trying to figure out why there are two lines to the pressure switch. The one looks like it has some metal filter. I dont wnat to plug it off without knowing why the manufacturer went to the trouble of having two lines to the switch when normally there is only the one at the bottom from the reservoir tank.  Thanks for pointing out possibility of BSPP. I ran into that with a chinese UV water purifier. They had many bad reviews for leakage and was not aware that although spt is similar to BSPP, they dont seal.

[cwl1979]

John,

I am confused about what you are asking. If you are going to utilize all the existing plumbing up to the compressor connection, then the outlet on the side of the compressor as Carl has indicated is where you will marry the systems. You will disconnect the three wires inside the pressure switch, white black and green. Then you will simply swap one compressor for the other.

You will not utilize the line going to the pressure switch.

One thing to look out for the connections on the compressor may be metric or BSPP. McMaster Carr is your friend when transitioning from metric to NPT.


I am trying to figure out why there are two lines to the pressure switch. The one looks like it has some metal filter. I dont wnat to plug it off without knowing why the manufacturer went to the trouble of having two lines to the switch when normally there is only the one at the bottom from the reservoir tank.  Thanks for pointing out possibility of BSPP. I ran into that with a chinese UV water purifier. They had many bad reviews for leakage and was not aware that although spt is similar to BSPP, they dont seal.

can you get us a better picture of your pump controller? I only see one line in from the air compressor and a pressure relief valve in the 2 pics you posted earlier.

[[email protected]]

The line at the electrical control comes from the output pressure manifold. Notice the hard line also going to the bottom of the pressure switch.

---

could that line be the unloader?

[cwl1979]

The hose pressure kicks the compressor on and off then the hard line will has the pressure relief valve on it to protect the pumptroller and prevent the the tank from over pressure. They just plumbed them together. Those should actually be separated. If that pressure valve were to fail the tank pressure could exceed what the rubber diaphragm in the pump control can handle and blow it out. then cause the compressor to run non stop till fixed.

[Richard]

yes, that is the unloader

[[email protected]]

I think I get it now- my current system has a remote unloader and check valve. I thought I needed an unloader valve for the Jun-Air but now I realize I do not. Makes this install simple. I may need an oil separator,need to check what is installed, maybe just a water separator.
This compressor is unbelievably quiet, just sitting on the floor, once enclosed I am sure you cannot hear it.



Thanks for the replies.

[cwl1979]

I hope this helps.    

  Last night i was looking on my phone, this is better on a computer so you can see what's going on.
The line from the tank that comes over to the pump controller is part of the unloader. You can see the brass fitting that looks like its covered in oil and cone shaped. That's the unloader muffler. The hard line with the pressure relief is direct from the tank to the diaphragm in the pump controller. That tells the compressor to turn on or off. Judging by the oily mess under the pump controller i would recommend an oil/water separator such like one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/NANPU-Filter-Regu...35?sr=8-35 This being a cheap version, but shows the idea. With that being an oil lubricated compressor I'd locate the level indicator and check it, fill as needed. Couldn't tell you what oil it needs though, my coach has a Gast compressor.