How do I remove the SCS basement air on our coach? Which side (driver/passenger) is A/C 1&2 and which is 3&4 please? I am having issues with 3&4 and it’s about time that I bone up on A/C repair…
Issues so far: A/C 3&4 will come on in the LOW thermostat setting and work for a while (I forgot to time it) and then blow the fuse.
I was going to run to the electrical supplier in Lufkin and see if they had the capacitors and slow start thingy I need but I don’t want to just start buying parts (like I did on the generator). Any help is appreciated!
Hi Forest: Have not pulled the unit out to check yet - have to figure that out first…
I was reading info online and found a Supco slow start capacitor but it says not to get this one - is this GOOD information?
The Supco uses a Positive Temperature Coefficient Relay (as stated on their website) not a Potential Relay. Not Good! Only use Hard Start Kits that use a true Potential Relay. The RectorSeal Kickstart (2 wire) and the 5-2-1 Compressor Saver (3 wire) hard start kits use a Potential Relay. I recommend the Kickstart (it uses 2 wires that connect to the Run Capacitor - HERM and COM). But the Compressor Saver is also good (3 wires with one connecting to the common / ground on the Contactor relay). They both work the same way - the Potential Relay detects the pickup voltage (back EMF). This causes the relay to disconnect the start capacitor when the compressor reaches about 75% speed (usually less than a second). Note: Supco does have hard start kits with a Mechanical Potential Relay (Models 3W1, 3W2, & 3W3) but they are not available on Amazon
I see in the instructions (thank you Richard) that I should be able to do most diagnostics without removing the unit(s). I’ll work on it week after next when we are back at home.
So if the unit does need to come out what is holding it in?? I need to get the “front” (actually more rearward)
unit out to look at the fam motor on mine unless there is another way?? It’s the smaller unit. It wants to start but I think the fan is locked up
(11-18-2024, 05:01 PM)whited44 Wrote: So if the unit does need to come out what is holding it in?? I need to get the “front” (actually more rearward) unit out to look at the fam motor on mine unless there is another way?? It’s the smaller unit. It wants to start but I think the fan is locked up
Look in the electrical compartment, clean the bottom of it, there may be a screw in there toward the front of it that holds it down. Mine had a screw there. Other than that it was a couple of tabs in the front and that was all that was holding it in place. Its probably partly stuck in there with the caulk around it too. I had to get a pry bar and pry it up off the bottom a bit. It should start to move a bit once you get it loosened.
Look on the bottom for drain lines, if you have them pop them straight down.
Of course removing the screws holding the elephant trunk to the unit.
Before you pull the unit out.
Have you measured the current draw on the motor?
Have you tested the capacitor for the fan motor?
Both could be clues that can be obtained before you grunt it out.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
(This post was last modified: 11-19-2024, 06:23 AM by Richard.)
(11-19-2024, 06:20 AM)Richard Wrote: In addition to what Jeff said,
Look on the bottom for drain lines, if you have them pop them straight down.
Of course removing the screws holding the elephant trunk to the unit.
Before you pull the unit out.
Have you measured the current draw on the motor?
Have you tested the capacitor for the fan motor?
Both could be clues that can be obtained before you grunt it out.
I'd definitely rather keep it in. What should the draw be on these items?? How do I test them??
)
