Posts: 1,695
Threads: 123
Joined: Aug 2012
Jon, You may be able to re-rivet that trim (molding) without totally redoing the 3m adhesive. Look closely..There will be a rivet at each end. The rivet goes from the back side and about 1/2 way into the molding. It may be under the rubber seal that is on the door. I've redone mine but I cant remember exactly where everything is..In my case I think somebody allowed the door to drop when there was an obstruction in the opening. Once the rivet pops out of the backside of the molding it eventually starts to peel away from the door skin.
1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
Posts: 2,695
Threads: 228
Joined: Jul 2012
Jon yes that pin does adjust. You could either try re-riveting the trim or use epoxy and clamps. Or pull all of it off and scrape the trim tape off and use new tape.
Forest & Cindy Olivier
1987 log cabin
2011 Roadtrek C210P
PO 1999 Foretravel 36'
1998 Newell 45' #486
1993 Newell 39' #337
Posts: 837
Threads: 50
Joined: Mar 2014
Thanks Forest: I'm going to give it a go with West epoxy. My kids used to accuse me of using it to fix everything all the time, but since I got out of sailboats I haven't used it as much though I still have the stuff and the mixing supplies. If you do use epoxy it works best of you wet sand the surfaces with the epoxy and then assemble them with a bit a extra glue. Aluminum oxidizes quickly and the oxidation weakens the bond; wet sanding provides a better "tooth" and a real aluminum surface.
Jon Kabbe
1993 coach 337 with Civic towed