Charge Air Cooler - Printable Version

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+--- Thread: Charge Air Cooler (/showthread.php?tid=6358)

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Charge Air Cooler - mr.skipper - 10-05-2021

I bought #721 a couple months ago and then Had a charge air cooler fail, tank cracked at welds. I see there is a lot of info on them failing so I thought I would share this, I had a couple company's quote new one but they were 6 weeks out. I called Atlas and they said three weeks out and I got it in two, the new one is built much better than original and the tanks seem to be built out square tubbing with a extra layer of aluminum welded on the ends.
While doing this I'm having Rad rebuilt, replacing turbo, replacing flex pipe and all hoses.

Matt Gordon
#721

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RE: Charge Air Cooler - Keith Jordan - 10-05-2021

Pressure test anything from Atlus before installation.

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RE: Charge Air Cooler - Richard - 10-06-2021

Use constant tension hose clamps.

Good time to run the overhead (valve adjustment) on the engine.

Check exhaust system, especially the flex connection. You will never have better access.

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RE: Charge Air Cooler - mr.skipper - 10-06-2021

Thanks, replacing all clamps and hoses. Did replace Flex pipe and clamps and your probably right I should do an overhead.

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RE: Charge Air Cooler - [email protected] - 11-19-2024

Please share how you remove the CAC.  The row of fasteners on the rail  on engine side go so far forward I dont see how you can get to them. Then there is the fasteners and silicone on the fan shroud.   I must be missing something like taking the bath sink and floor out.
Thanks
JD

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RE: Charge Air Cooler - mr.skipper - 11-19-2024

I pulled turbo first, fan, rear bumper and everything so I had room to pull rad out the back, yes forward bolts holding shroud are very hard to get at. Then pulled CAC. I have picts but can't get at them until tomorrow

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RE: Charge Air Cooler - Richard - 11-20-2024

John,

Here are a couple of essential ideas for working in that space.

One, go to HF and buy a lift table, or construct one that is even with the deck of the engine compartment. It helps TREMENDOUSLY when crawling in and out of the space.

Remove the two upper and two lower bolts that fasten the H support that holds the fan motor, OHLA, and fan. That allows you to swivel the assembly enough to get easy access to the center bolt to holds the fan to the OHLA. Remove the fan.

Obtain two rubber plugs or fittings to plug the hyd hoses when you disconnect the fan motor, otherwise most of the fluid will drain from the tank and make a huge mess. Now you can slide out the H with motor and OHLA attached. It’s big chunk of weight so the table will come in handy to slide the assembly onto.

On the inside of the shroud are about four or five bolts that hold the shroud to the rad and cac. They will be rusted and a pain to remove. I used a dremel tool and cutoff blade on a few of them. Remove the bolts that hold the upper and lower shroud together. Then remove the shroud. It may be possible to now unbolt the CAC from the rad and take it out. I have taken out the rad without removing the CAC, but I don’t know about the other way around.

Should we conclude that you had a leak when you pressure tested the CAC? https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=912 Lot’s of pics that may help here.

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RE: Charge Air Cooler - [email protected] - 11-20-2024

great info from you guys. I was measuring the in and out duct for pressure plugs and started to look carefully at the cac. I saw some cracks thru a layer covering the upper joint and realized it was some sort of epoxy. It had cracked so I peeled it away and then saw a crack where the core meets the end cap.  I will try to send a picture but will not be able to work on this for a week or so.

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RE: Charge Air Cooler - [email protected] - 11-20-2024

upper forward outside weld.  a small bit of epoxy bottom of the picture I added.

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RE: Charge Air Cooler - smagown - 11-20-2024

Don't forget to check to see if there is a ground strap from the radiator to the frame to prevent electrolysis. If not, install one.

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