Air operating systems - Printable Version
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+--- Thread: Air operating systems (/showthread.php?tid=1699)
RE: Air operating systems - folivier - 08-03-2014
What about using 2 long screwdrivers or small pry bars and try to get them onto the back side of the rubber seal and try to push it towards the outside? If you can get it to move then leave the screwdrivers in place to keep it from going backwards into the tank and use a snake like Steve did to pull it out through the dump opening.
RE: Air operating systems - qcj - 08-03-2014
Forest, I am going to try a lot of thing tomorrow. The main thing is to get this stuff out if I can. I'm going to sleep on it tonight. 3 AM I might have a good idea.
RE: Air operating systems - encantotom - 08-03-2014
i had a similar problem as steve did. i did eventually get it out. fortunately, i wasnt living in it. it did get me a new tool, the inspection camera with a long flexible stem.
tom
RE: Air operating systems - Richard - 08-03-2014
Sorry for the bad advice. I responded from my phone and didn't have my glasses on the see the pic. Harbor freight has some interesting needle nose vise grips that I call the alligator. They have about a 10 inch reach and will go through the top opening.
RE: Air operating systems - encantotom - 08-03-2014
i have both sets of those harborfreight ones. the straight and curved
tom
RE: Air operating systems - qcj - 08-03-2014
I will check on this. I can't hold the long nose plies tight enough to pull it out. Good idea. There is a Horbor Freight about 20 miles from me. Lowes is closer and might try them first. Also I am going to try Steve's idea again. I have a snake, but the end is not as wide as his, about the size of a peanut in the shell. I plan to spread the end out and see if it want penetrate the rubber. I really need to get this out because I do not want it to get into the holding tank.
RE: Air operating systems - arcticdude - 08-03-2014
A long flat blade screwdriver down through the top hole will pop the rubber pad loose, albeit further down the tube. Since its smaller that the tube anyway, it will flush out when you dump, so I would worry about it.
The lower plastic piece should come out, but you may need to soak it loose first. I would probably try some clr or the like. Let it soak for an hour or so, then push on one end with the same long screwdriver. It hopefully will pop loose and curl up on the other side.
I haven't looked in a while, but I thought you could buy the individual parts to the valve from Stephen Birtles. I know you can get the rubber paddle and plastic holder separately. Those and the rod should get you back together.
Ideally, plumbers grease should be applied to the sealing areas of the rubber paddles annually. It prevents this from occurring, but is often placed low on the repair list.
RE: Air operating systems - Chester Stone - 08-04-2014
Last year, I noticed that one ear of the curb side air sewer valve was broken. Closer examination revealed that the valve casing was broken and considerable work would be required to cut into the system to replace everything. It was not leaking so the final decision I made was to don't fix what aint borken. If it is not leaking, why open it up since it is almost never needed. If the case is broken like mine and it was leaking, I would seriously consider using a water proof liquid foam to seal it forever. Recently, when Newell serviced my main valve, the used Vasaline to lubricate the paddle.
RE: Air operating systems - lbrachfe - 08-04-2014
Had the same issues when I bought my coach and decided then to saw off both sides and reinstall with rubber boots on the hard pipes so I could service or replace them easily n the future. It has been 4 years and I use both sides equally and I have to replace the rubber paddle on the passenger side as it is starting to slightly trickle. it was not that tough a job and took about two hours in total. you do need a small saw or Dremel tool and it's a snap...
RE: Air operating systems - qcj - 08-04-2014
Larry, the problem for me to saw the dump valve off is it is attached so close to the holding tank, maybe 1", there would not be anything left to connect to. Plus the other side of the pipe runs under the 12 volt compressor which would have to be removed. My drain connection under the coach is in good condition and the air valve housing looks to be OK.
I did get the rubber seal out this morning with a long nose vice grip. Thanks everyone for the suggestion. It still didn't want to come but got it out. Part of the bottom half of the plastic valve is still there. It doesn't want the budge but will keep trying on that too. When I go back after lunch I plan the spray water into the top to clean it up a bit. Looking down with a mirror still quite cruddy. When I get this plastic part out I will start putting things back together. That is the time I am looking forward too.